Showing at the venerable Astor Hall at the New York Public Library was a flex for Ulla Johnson, whose business is on fire right now.
The lush interior, set with wooden stools and mimosa floral cloud installations by Emily Thompson, was a fitting backdrop for Johnson’s ever-growing and ever-elevating lifestyle universe, which as of this fall will include a new denim category, her first optical glasses and a bigger focus on accessories, which she nailed with tassel clog boots and metallic drawstring bucket bags.
The adorable hip-hop hippie soul singer PawPaw Rod set the scene for what Johnson called her “baroque psychedelic” theme.
Descending the grand staircase, her models also played the part, looking like rich bohemians leaving a literary salon (growing up in New York, the designer said she used to study at the library, while no doubt dressed incredibly).
“This season was a departure for us because of the richness of materiality,” Johnson explained, noting how she was inspired by the Colombian textile artist Olga de Amaral, known for working in earth tones applied with gold foil, and using precious metals in her work.
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It was dazzling.
On the runway, she updated her sculpted puff-sleeved dresses in taffeta and marbleized prints, and her tiered skirts with delicate hand embroidery. Metallic gold and platinum duchess satin tops and dresses layered over turtlenecks and suiting trousers had a modern, casual formality. Knits were more of a focus than ever before, from psychedelic print turtleneck tops and melange Henleys used as layering pieces to a gorgeous hand space-dyed sweater and skirt set.
Johnson’s new denim looked great, particularly the rosewood cuffed jeans worn with a matching color-blocked Henley. Her take on the all-important workwear shirt came in suede with a gathered waist. Shearling vests and coats in powdery colors, selvedge plaids and quilting added a sense of ’70s Americana. So, too, did the the desert-hued hand crochet patchwork and suede pullover and skirt that closed the show as a demonstration of Johnson’s dedication to an increasingly artisanal offering.
This should be the first collection to land in Johnson’s first L.A. store, slated to open in August. It’s going to feel right at home.