“We started with the brand’s codex and explored a new way of core dressing, introducing this way of dressing to modern generations,” the Helmut Lang Design Studio team said during a preview of their fall collection, which homed in on new tailoring and utilitarian elements across men’s and women’s ready-to-wear.
The look: Familiar brand ideas, uplifted with a modern, sartorial lens.
Quote of note: “We have been thinking about how beautiful things can also be useful things (or vice versa) and the commonalities between tailoring and utility,” the press notes read.
Key pieces: Across men’s and women’s, outerwear proved strong (shearling aviator jackets, reversible vests and utility parkas; leather moto jackets); tailored trousers with extended elastic logo’d waistbands (a nod to exposed underwear); sleek utilitarian layers and new denim styles.
In women’s: soft, slinky ’90s dresses and slip skirts; tailoring (a tuxedo tank top or sheer blouse with sleek trousers, or full leather suit); a bomber miniskirt with exposed zipper hem.
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In men’s: a plush gray shirt jacket suit; a crisp black blazer with backpack-like straps across the chest; classic shirting; a dual-layer, sheer cotton T-shirt sweater with subtle logo detail.
The takeaway: Like spring, the Helmut Lang team smartly infused its brand heritage while pushing forward with sleek designs.