“I’ve been approaching the idea of risk very differently post pandemic, I feel everything I should do now should be the most extreme, most creative version of an idea,” Joseph Altuzarra said backstage following his strong fall collection show. “A lot of the collection this season was about developing craft and this idea of minutiae and things that were made globally with global artisans. For me, the whole story was an homage to imagination. I felt this sense of wanderlust and wanting to escape. I’ve been doing that through books since I haven’t been able to travel. This was my way to escape.”
Fall’s wanderlust and escapist feeling was exhibited through nautical and mythical sea references. A hardback copy of that bane of high school English class, “Moby Dick,” was placed at each showgoer’s seat; his Woolworth Building show setting further played to the theme with its dramatic ceiling featuring sea creatures, small sailboats and fish scale motifs.
The designer’s fall collection continued spring’s rich bohemian look of the brand’s origins, kicking off with luxe cold-weather styles that played to the theme. Tailored sailor coats with upright shearling lined collars and cropped mariner striped knits were paired with sweeping pleated wool and leather skirts (referencing a kilt the designer made during a jaunt to Edinburgh, Scotland). Fisherman knits had earthy appeal via shibori dye techniques. Atluzarra worked with artisans in Japan on the offering, which felt especially new in contrast to signature ruched and cinched woven renditions. Embroidery work from India and printed wovens from weavers in Africa also pushed the wanderlust bohemian spirit.
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Altuzarra further evolved the mythical sea theme with beautifully refined scalloped “fish scale” knit dressing (a cropped cardigan and long skirt, or body-hugging frocks) and stellar mermaid-inspired evening wear. His creative risks paid off — you could almost hear the soft crash of ocean waves as the paillette emblazoned looks swished by, ending the show on a glamorous and poetic note.