In a strong and sleek collection, Ports 1961 artistic director Karl Templer put a fresh spin on wardrobe classics.
“An idea of a new generation of self-expression” inspired his approach, sparking the youthful vibe that ran through the lineup.
For example, Templer reinvigorated sartorial tropes with corseted tailoring — checking the box of a big trend in Milan — pairing it with frilled skater skirts that swooshed over models’ chunky boots.
Playing with contrasting textures and balancing masculine and feminine elements, he gentled tailored looks with Victorian-inspired shirt collars, or alternated them with lovely short dresses with frills and diaphanous frocks in longer lengths. As a counterpoint, he introduced denim jackets with sliced sleeves and functional puffers, both punctuated by military passementerie.
As Templer let his creativity travel between cities, he mixed the collection’s irreverent British attitude with a touch of French flair. Cue the cool Breton striped sweaters and knit dresses that enhanced the lineup’s graphic quality.
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“It is no longer localized, it is global so you can interpret it how you want,” Templer said about his fashions and the cross-pollination of references. Certainly, the series of oversize chunky knits with thick braid motifs have a universal appeal: They were the most covetable pieces in this smart and wearable collection.