Andrea Pompilio was clearly in a nostalgic mood this season.
After referencing ‘90s minimalism for his namesake line, he took a trip through the earlier decade for Onitsuka Tiger’s fall collection — right when Japanese fashion was about to take Paris by storm.
There were echoes of Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons in the brutalist layering and all-black, coed lineup, a nod to Japan’s traditional ceremonial dressing. They took Onitsuka Tiger’s sportswear vocabulary to different and more captivating territories: punk-ish, mysterious and brimming with youthful energy.
Cue parkas trimmed in fleece worn over cargo Bermuda and bomber jackets; pleated apron style skirts over pants and knit cardigans, or acid-washed flame print asymmetrical sweaters with dangling scarves. Boys and girls walking down the runway sported iterations of the same looks. While genderless fashion may seem very of the now, the Japanese have been doing it since the ‘80s, Pompilio said backstage.
After 10 years at the helm of the brand and marking the first physical show since joining the Milan schedule amid the pandemic, Pompilio let his intuition run freely. He captured the youthful spirit of the ‘80s, making it street-inspired and relevant for today.