Talk about statements: Marco Rambaldi, a young talent on the Milan scene, went all-in with his thought-provoking parade for fall, sending a poignant message about inclusivity — or the industry’s lack thereof.
Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli sat front row — Rambaldi is the first designer to be supported by the house as part of its mentorship program. “I think fashion is and should be political — if it isn’t, it’s just clothes and I don’t care,” Piccioli said post show.
Indeed Rambaldi’s runway was charged with a political undercurrent. Queer types, body-diverse models, people of different origins, skin colors and of all ages tread the runway, each with a strong and peculiar attitude. You could spy the shy girl at her runway debut and the braggart who knows how to entertain an audience.
The models — and their acting gestures — were so captivating that fashion almost took a back seat. Granny-chic knitwear appeared in miniskirts with side slits, crop tops, long johns and trailing robe coats, often crocheted, fully fashioned and flanked by see-through slipdresses bearing erotic comic strip prints. They were the kind of fashion today’s TikTok kids obsessed with the Aughts want.
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A young guy gestured provocatively to the audience, spurring a collective jolt. That discomforting feeling was exactly the point: The industry’s lack of diversity should have everyone flinch as much as this show did.