Gabriele Colangelo belongs to a group of designers who have made independence their strength. No matter the business hurdles, freedom has allowed him to carve a multilayered lexicon over the seasons.
For fall, his sculptural shapes and architectural approach to tailoring were tempered via crafty details, a painterly palette and construction tricks breathing ease in the collection.
What was the woven spaghetti top hanging precariously on the model’s torso made of? Supple leather, as were the buttery white padded topcoats and collarless suits. Other intrecciato aprons layered over tailored suits or under plunging V-neck frocks were strings of shimmering beads. They looked wonderful.
True to his vocabulary, he plied wool into trapeze side-revealing dresses and elongated coats, which were the weakest part of the collection, their construction a tad too stiff to be flattering.
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Colangelo channeled the colors of the aurora borealis into skirts and dresses featuring a back swathe of fabric that would billow like a cape with movement, worked pleats into enveloping cape-like add-ons to severe overcoats and had a captivating fuzzy dress made of silk. This was the designer at his best.