Ennio Capasa has returned to the fashion circuit with his new project Capasa Milano, kicking off the city’s fashion week and attracting loyal fans that have not forgotten his successful collections for Costume National. An impressive array of top executives also sat front row, from Marco Bizzarri and Ubaldo Minelli to Stefano Sassi, Claudio Marenzi, as well as Carla Sozzani.
Unconventional tailoring was how Capasa titled his collections notes, explaining that he “worked on tailoring, wondering what it will be like in the future, blending handmade details with laser-cut workmanship and heat-sealed techniques, borrowing from the sportswear world.”
Tie-dyed velvet suits, whether in a slimmer fit or boxier in a double-breasted version, stood out. A beautiful, raw-edged trench and a coat with a special belt-like detail on the breast telegraphed the designer’s tailoring skills.
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Suits also featured prints that were renditions of his own drawings and paintings of animals. Elsewhere, fluorescent patches were applied to blazers and jackets for an arty touch. (After all, Capasa studied art at the Brera Academy.) After exiting in 2016 the Costume National brand he founded with his brother Carlo, he said he had spent the past few years working on his art.
His goal was to blur the boundaries between genders, day and evening. To wit, the collection can be purchased in a wide range of sizes and suits were worn with skirts or trousers or with both.
Capasa underscored that he wanted to work on individuality, choosing different hair and makeup for each model to convey a personal attitude. They all shared the same confidence walking the runway, perhaps bolstered by the strong shoulders and bold cuts that echoed the ’80s.
It was a promising first collection, or “before it starts,” as he called it. Welcome back, Ennio!