At Schiaparelli, the future is “the slick-back.”
On Monday morning, creative director Daniel Roseberry presented his fall 2025 couture collection in Paris, unearthing a new era for the house rooted in the styles and silhouettes of the mid 20th century, and with that a soft, sleek approach to beauty, one that requires only a bottle of hair gel and a boar bristle brush.
The slick-back, a hairstyle revived by TikTok’s “clean girl” trend, led by Bella Hadid and Hailey Bieber, dominated the aesthetic, both on and off the runway. Joséphine Japy, Gessica Kayane, Hunter Schafer, Skye Hankey and Christine Chiu were among a litany of guests boasting the minimal look outside the show before Roseberry’s models paraded down the catwalk with the same immovable ‘do.
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While the slick-back style takes on many forms, most at Schiaparelli brushed their hair straight back, leaving no pieces behind. Picture the aftermath of hair dunked underwater. From the front, models and attendees with the style looked as if they’d chopped their long tresses into pixie cuts; zero ends in sight.
Hankey’s dark locks were pulled into a long ponytail behind her, but the extension was only visible from the side. Meanwhile, Schafer’s, Kayane’s and Japy’s hairs were fastened into buns hidden behind their head.
Inside the Petit Palais, the slick-back was met with angsty glamour. The matted-down, constricted hairdo styled by Guido Palau put the models’ bold, glossy black lipstick on full display, rendering natural makeup irrelevant. That said, avant-garde artist Pat McGrath kept the models’ bases bare, adding only a stroke of highlight on the high points of their cheeks.
The post-apocalyptic beauty aesthetic was embodied in Roseberry’s surrealist designs, which marked a departure from the modernism he had previously instilled in his interpretations for the house. “I wanted it to feel like a bit of a farewell. We’re gonna be restructuring everything after this,” he told WWD. “I think if you want to change the result, you have to change the process, and I just want to keep pushing forward.”
Elsewhere outside the show, Cardi B spun her slick-back into a side-part bob, tucking her hair behind her ears as she balanced a live raven on the shoulder of her dramatic, sculpture-esque fringe gown courtesy of Schiaparelli’s spring 2024 couture collection. “I’m not scared of the bird,” she told WWD. “I control him. We’re best friends.”