A favorite of Uma Thurman and the late Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, the quiet ponytail was called upon by Jil Sander and Fendi on Wednesday during Milan Fashion Week, where Simone Bellotti and Maria Grazia Chiuri, respectively, returned to the roots of ready-to-wear in their fall 2026 collections.
Models at Jil Sander walked the runway in double-breasted suiting, stiff, structured dresses and pencil skirts, with their hair loosely pulled behind their shoulders. Some women, dressed in half-zipped evening coats, appeared with their hair in low, messy buns as if they’d thrown it back on their way out the door.
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The relaxed concept was imagined by stylist Anthony Turner, the same artist resposible for the Olsen-coded beauty at the Seven For All Mankind show in New York earlier in February. Indeed, the hair aesthetic at Jil Sander was a bit more polished in comparison, particularly the top of the head. However, fallen strands around the face and behind their ears gave way to a similar “it is what it is” mentality.
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Meanwhile, at Fendi, the quiet ponytail complimented a hodgepodge of approachable garments, including satin slips, lace skirts, floating collars, cargo trousers and fur-lined vests. With the direction of hair architect Guido Palou, models let the new Fendi speak for itself, storming down the catwalk with their hair tied behind them. The style was a shift away from Palou’s typical avant-garde technique, in which he molds the hair into geometric figures.
Considering the current Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy craze clogging social media, nods to minimalistic beauty aren’t totally surprising. What is notable is when and where the aesthetic is being used. This season, it’s a favorite for director debuts.
Backstage at Proenza Schouler, hairstylist Holly Smith fashioned a sleek version of the quiet ponytail for Rachel Scott’s first collection during New York Fashion Week. Speaking with WWD, she said motivation was to “climb into Proenza on this new path without dominating with beauty.” She also nodded to Bessette-Kennedy, saying, “New York just knows how to make the lady that we are in particular, and long hair, look so simple and effortless. Even like the Carolyn Bessette Kennedy era, that vibe is still sort of happening.”