Retailers on Men’s NYFW: Good, But Can Use More Energy

Retailers, editors generally like the shows, but see room for improvement.

February 7, 2016, 11:21am

On a scale of one to 10, New York Fashion Week: Men’s probably ranked a 7.5.

True, a couple of the big names opted out — Ralph Lauren, Rag & Bone and Thom Browne — but other well-known American designers embraced the second edition of the shows, including Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors, Joseph Abboud, John Varvatos (who nonetheless opted for a presentation rather than a runway show this time) and Calvin Klein’s Italo Zucchelli.

With a few caveats, retailers praised the second edition, saying it provided a strong backdrop to highlight established and emerging men’s designers without the distraction of the larger and more frenetic women’s shows.

“I’m very supportive of New York having its own week,” said Ken Downing, fashion director and senior vice president of stores for Neiman Marcus. “The first edition in July was very strong and showed great promise and this was an admirable second round.”

“I would like to see more bravado within the shows,” he said. “It’s important for designers to remember that people have been on the road for weeks looking at major collections, and this is their opportunity to bring it. I love New York for the pragmatic way of getting it done, but the designers [need to up their game].”

Charlie Porter, fashion critic of the Financial Times of London, agreed. “As a critic, too many of the shows didn’t warrant discussion. It’s not that they were bad; they’re just banal. There’s a curious lack of chutzpah, no New York ballsiness. I’d love to see that sense of occasion, purpose, emotional and intellectual engagement that Marc Jacobs put into his spring 2016 women’s show. I believe it will happen with men’s wear in New York. It will just take time, and real commitment.”

Even so, Downing said the shows were well organized and he liked the location at Skylight Clarkson North in TriBeCa, although he found the spaces too large and the lighting too bright which caused the “models to be too detached from the audience.”

As a result, “many of the presentations translated more successfully,” he said. “I’m a presentation junkie. I don’t have to spend my time waiting around for a show to start and it gives me face time with the designer. And for young brands, they show the clothes better than a runway show.”

He especially liked Brett Johnson, Gypsy Sport and its gender-bending lineup, as well as Hickey Freeman, whose collection looked “strong and on trend.” He also liked Public School and its innovative runway show that brought fans and followers into the fold. “The collection was very strong and true to them,” he said.

Kevin Harter, vice president of fashion direction for men’s at Bloomingdale’s, said he was impressed with the “great balance of upcoming and prominent designers, and I witnessed a great number of compelling shows and presentations.” Harter said that while there were still a few notable no-shows, if they can be compelled to jump on board. “I’m confident that we can rival other city’s men’s fashion weeks.”

In terms of product, Harter said: “I thought Billy Reid presented his best collection to date — it was absolutely beautiful. John Elliott proved he is going to be a powerhouse in this industry. [Eidos’] Antonio Ciongoli is a major talent and gave one of the best presentations of the week. Also, I give a big shout-out to Duckie Brown. They kept it simple with six perfect looks.” He also liked Stampd, CWST and Second/Layer.

He said that relaxed dressing, as evidenced by the unconstructed jackets and coats; longer, looser knits; wider pant silhouettes, and statement outerwear, were among the key trends of the week.

Eric Jennings, vice president and fashion director of men’s for Saks Fifth Avenue, said the shows were “filled with some of the best and brightest American designers today. There was a nice balance between the well-established guard and some really innovative young emerging talents.”

Like Harter, he said what would push the week over the top would be if the big names would jump on board. “Ideally I’d love to see some of the bigger names do runway shows in the coming seasons. It would have been great to have Thom Browne and Michael Bastian on the schedule.”

That being said, Jennings said he “loved the John Varvatos rock ‘n’ roll presentation, which was so original, energetic and really represented the brand. Greg Lauren also put on a superstylish, boxing-inspired presentation. Ovadia & Sons showed one of their best collections, as did Billy Reid. Deveaux launched their collection with a totally chic and sophisticated show. And I loved Duckie Brown’s thoroughly focused and edited six-look runway show.” He also liked Stampd, EFM, Rochambeau, Siki Im, Cadet, and Second/Layer.

Jennings said “the big takeaway is that silhouettes in men’s wear are easing up. Ath-leisure and active sport influences are everywhere. Military inspiration and utility pockets in outerwear are key. And American tailored clothing still has a strong voice.”

Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman, liked the blend of “designers both big and small, established and emerging, from New York City as well as a nice presence from SoCal [Southern California], which is having some great creative output.”

He liked the venue and the schedule as well as some of the participants, including John Elliott, who “showed a terrific collection filled with great layers of quilted and sherpa pieces. Public School’s clever show staged both for us as well as the social media-savvy sidewalk viewers” and Orley’s “charming floral intarsia polos and crewneck sweaters.”

He said he particularly liked the “quilted jackets and cozy sherpa vests and overshirts. We saw a lot of proportion play, especially in outerwear, with slouchy shapes and drop shouldered silhouettes that were also seen throughout the European shows. There’s still a strong utilitarian thread continuing from spring in both a neutral color palette and uniform style shapes.”

Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s for Barneys New York, said the “attention on men’s wear is resounding in the ears of customers” as blogs, Instagram posts and show coverage “all contribute to affirm the passion for fashion that sophisticated guys are feeling.”

From a retail perspective, he found the mix “getting better and better. It’s nice to see how designers that once were considered newcomers to the scene, are now the senior statesmen,” he said.

He thought Greg Lauren “knocked it out of the park. What started as an artisanal, sculptural spin on the many archetypes of men has evolved into a culture of its own with a secret code. True there are other deconstructed clothes out there but none that embody the soul of a man like these.”

He also liked Michael Kors and having him “narrate his presentation personally. You could feel his passion and conviction,” and appreciated John Varvatos’s “fantastic journey.” He also liked Eidos, Paul Andrews and HRMNN, as well as the overall convergence of street style with luxury. And the abundance of layering techniques opens the opportunity for increased sales.

Durand Guion, vice president and men’s fashion director for Macy’s, was “impressed with the improved logistics as well as the overall aesthetic of the environment. It was fairly convenient to get to and from although I wish the escalators were operational.” He said the mix of brands presented was “a great representation of both new and established American men’s wear designers and brands,” and he especially liked Cadet, Perry Ellis, Billy Reid and David Hart. At the shows, he saw “so many fantastic variations” of the military trend, along with the slouchy silhouette that “ really seemed to materialize into a more commercial idea.”

Nelson Mui, men’s fashion director for Hudson’s Bay and Lord & Taylor, said the timing of the shows worked “since we’re still in fall market. There weren’t any new trends offered, but it’s an important platform for designers to develop greater [public relations] and brand awareness.”

He liked Billy Reid, Duckie Brown, Orley, Carlos Campos, Lucio Castro CWST, Cadet and Garciavelez. However, there is room for improvement. “Everyone wants to support NYFW: Men’s, but on the whole, American men’s designer fashion has not made many inroads with a global consumer — and by extension, global retail and press. Excepting the big guns, only a handful of independent designers have a global following: Rick Owens, Thom Browne. Ultimately, what will put it on the global map is not whether a high-profile designer shows here or not; it’s whether people need to come here for market to do business or discover new talent.”

Brian Trunzo, cofounder and co-owner of Carson Street Clothiers, said, “The brand matrix was definitely indicative of what is trending in New York right now: a vast majority of those who showed would fall into the contemporary or streetwear categories.”

While that has a place, he said he’d like designers such as Rick Owens, Tom Ford, Phillip Lim, Ralph Lauren “and the rest of the gigantic names in American fashion to be more involved.” Even so, he liked Orley and N. Hoolywood and was impressed with Gypsy Sport.

Josh Peskowitz, the former Bloomingdale’s fashion director who is opening his own store in California this spring, liked Public School, CWST, John Elliott, Second/Layer, N. Hoolywood and Duckie Brown, along with Palmiers du Mal.

Fashion critics from Europe, whose trips to New York were sponsored by CFDA, were — surprisingly — a little critical.

Luke Day, editor of British GQ Style, said: “I absolutely think NYFW: Men’s is useful. It introduces a roster of New York designers that in reality are relatively unknown to us in the U.K. (or Europe). I think creating a fashion week here also makes the designers here have to raise the bar, too. New York just needs some bold injection of bigger U.S. brands to be brave enough to strike out in the calendar to take it to the next level.”

Frederic Martin Bernard, men’s fashion critic for Le Figaro, said: “The event is well organized, but it’s difficult to speak about ‘new talents’ in New York when it comes after London, Milan and Paris, where many creative and very exciting collections are presented. Most of the youngest labels are focused on the product and it’s really difficult to see an identity in each of their collections. Most of them looked the same and are presented at the same venue with too strong light, too loud music.…When I say ‘the same,’ I mean: a sportswear spirit with pieces easy to wear, easy to sell.…I’m disappointed that stronger designers (or labels) like Alexander Wang, Hood by Air, or more famous than Polo Ralph Lauren, Rag & Bone, are not included in this edition and prefer to show men’s collections during women’s.”

For him, the most interesting brands were those who showed in the presentations format including Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors, Theory and Jeffrey Rudes. “Most of these houses are already successful — this simplicity to present American men’s wear may explain this.”

Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the CFDA, said he was pleased with the second edition of the shows and wishes that people would stop being so “hypersensitive about who isn’t showing” and focus on who is showing instead.

Although American men’s wear is often criticized for being too commercial and not directional, he disagreed, pointing to brands such as Gypsy Sport and Devon Halfnight Leflufy, who definitely pushed the envelope. And he said John Varvatos’s rock ‘n’ roll fun-house installation, Greg Lauren’s boxing ring, Rochambeau’s battling DJs and Public School’s fan involvement were all creative and innovative.

So for the next edition, slated for July 11 to 14, CFDA will “keep identifying fresh brands to bring into the week” and explore the opportunity of bringing an international guest designer to the shows.

“The American market is one of the most important in the world, so for an international brand who is getting into men’s wear or focusing more on men’s wear, this is the gateway for them to American men. And we’re focused on making that happen,” Kolb said.