The light show schedule at Milan Men’s Fashion Week this past weekend allowed buyers to roam around the city to check the presentations of 36 brands and intimate shows by new names in town.
WWD was on the ground, too, and rounded up seven must-have pieces to update next fall’s men’s wardrobes, from elevated denim and knitted sets to shearling outerwear and novelty shirts.
The Mix-and-match Shirt: Harmont & Blaine
Mismatched panels on Harmont & Blaine’s fall shirts — checkered on one side and tartan on the other, sometimes with contrasting cuffs and collars — added a playful touch to one of the brand’s hero pieces. Some of them, part of the Re-Love upcycling capsule collection, were crafted from deadstock and worn with a tie, which also featured different patterns on the front and back. Shirting aligned with the collection’s overall theme of revisiting heritage menswear through the brand’s joyful and casual lens, for example shortening raglan-sleeved herringbone coats for extra practicality, decking lightly padded overshirts in gray and white gingham and doing argyle knits in offbeat color combos.
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The Elevated Denim: Jacob Cohën
As Jacob Cohën continues to expand its total look offering under the creative lead of the brand’s owner Jennifer Tommasi Bardelle, it didn’t put aside its emphasis and know-how of pants-making. Known since its founding for the so-called “abbigliato,” or accessorized denim pants featuring silver or horn buttons and rivets and ponyskin labels, the brand elaborated the theme for fall, offering for example barrel jeans with a nubuck waistline. They mingled with full-fledged sartorial bottoms to be paired with a strong outerwear offering that spanned overshirts crafted from Loro Piana textiles, mixed-media puffer jackets with shearling front panels, and double cashmere overcoats. Tommasi Bardelle said that she’s committed to carry on the legacy instilled in the brand by her late husband Nicola Bardelle and her efforts are paying off: In 2026 the brand is poised to unveil a flagship in New York.
The Shearling Outerwear: Brett Johnson
In charting his vision of American luxe casualwear, Brett Johnson continued to deliver wardrobe-building pieces crafted from luxurious and high-quality materials. Proving his forte with the category, shearling jackets came to the fore as an all-time classic to embrace, which Johnson presented in tactile suede versions in the shape of aviators, mid-length coats and zippered jackets, the latter offered with the shearling on the outside. They were paired with cable-knit crew- and turtlenecks, as well as cashmere polo shirts. Overall, the fall look skewed more casual than usual, with leisurely track pants paired with jersey-like cashmere blazers and double hooded coats or mixed-media hoodies atop leather bombers.
The Logo Sweatshirt: Bikkembergs
Bikkembergs’ signature Pupino logo, the silhouetted soccer player kicking the ball, is making a comeback for fall, appearing as a velvety appliqué on the front of sweatshirts and hoodies — the brand’s preferred fall underpinning to padded bomber jackets, archival bikers bearing the brand’s moniker spelled out vertically and puffer jackets in unusual materials, including denim and knit. The figurine is not the only reference to the brand’s archives from the early Aughts: the signature soccer-inspired shoe was offered in new, distressed leather versions, following last season’s reboot.
The Padded Vest: Eleventy
The laid-back wardrobe solutions at Eleventy sought to strike the balance between relaxed tailoring and sophisticated leisurewear, with plenty of smart pieces that could work both in the city and at the mountains. In between corduroy suits and Fair Isle cardigans, the brand has zeroed in on padded vests as the key transitional piece to layer over the looks, conveying a sense of practicality without forgoing style. Their different iterations were a fresh addition to the brand’s coats and jackets in soft vicuña, down jackets in wool and cashmere flannels rendered in patterns such as houndstooth, Prince of Wales checks and chevron.
The New Knitted Set: Rowen Rose
After making her runway debut and introducing menswear in June, Emma Rowen Rose returned to Milan to stage a theatrical show in an abandoned church. A profusion of candles were set around the altar, L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Amber scent lingered in the air and little sand dunes lined the catwalk, intended to evoke deserts and ancient cities, echoing the spirit of Petra. The inspiration filtered through the maximalist and glamorous designs of the Paris-based fashion luxury brand, especially in the charming gradient effects that informed the array of different textures she deployed, which ranged from fluid silks to meaty leather pieces worked in her signature pleated construction.
While the bold men’s look hinged on ‘80s proportions and luxe materials might not be everyone’s bread and butter, there was an approachable yet luxe vibe in the knitted sets Rowen Rose paraded. Think of travel dressing with lots of flair, exalted by fringed details, bejeweled pins and the lush color palette of browns, greens and blues in solid or dégradés effects.
Denim, Revisited: Victor-Hart
Victor-Hart debuted at Milan Fashion Week with his collection dubbed “Anatomy of Void” exploring “emptiness as a primordial force, capable of shaping form, function and identity,” said the designer, focusing on structure through subtraction. The designer revisited denim from a workwear and daily fabric through treatments that added sculptural architecture.
“I was fascinated and inspired by construction workers in Ghana, transforming the uniform into a second skin, functional yet also comfortable,” said Hart. This translated into impactful drapey and softly tailored floor-length trenches, capes, jumpsuits and utility jackets in denim treated to appear muddy or dusty with a natural patina, achieved through washes, abrasion, and industrial dyeing techniques in collaboration with technical and production partner Haseller. “Denim is never out of style,” he contended. Oversized double-face pants were also key in the collection.