From rising stars to industry icons, FN has been documenting the biggest shoe talents for eight decades.
To mark the magazine’s 80th anniversary, editors dipped into the archives, combing through the countless conversations with these design legends, including Roger Vivier, Christian Louboutin, Manolo Blahnik and many more.
Below are short excerpts from 14 of footwear’s greatest creative forces, reflecting on iconic shoes, learning from the past and overcoming challenges.
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Paul Andrew
Image Credit: John Aquino/WWD/Penske Media On inspirational creative talents:
“When I graduated [from the Berkshire College of Art & Design], my first job was with [Alexander] McQueen in the late 1990s. He taught me so much about breaking boundaries. That’s something I always think about when I’m stuck in a rut.” (2016)
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Manolo Blahnik
Image Credit: Everett Collection / Everett Collection On staying motivated during challenging times:
“I couldn’t live without my total freedom. It’s the only luxury I have. I choose what I want to do, and this is the one thing I’m really happy about. I can’t just sit back [and relax]. It’s not my life. It’s not who I am.” (2015)
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Sandra Choi
Image Credit: Courtesy of Jimmy Choo On her design principles:
“There’s a difference between being a designer and being an artist, so you could create an art piece, but you still need to make sure the 12 other pieces in the collection will actually sell.” (2016)
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Gherardo Felloni
Image Credit: Courtesy of Roger Vivier On inspirational creative talents:
“Without the past, there’s no future in fashion. I have been inspired by Roger Vivier all my career. So, of course, when I arrived here, I was attracted to the archive. My goal is to take this brand and make it alive and contemporary.” (2023)
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Pierre Hardy
Image Credit: Claudia Revidat On creating an iconic shoe:
“I was so ambitious to dream [that I could] overpass the iconic stiletto with [the iconic Blade Pump]. Besides the style challenge itself, I had to face the actual process of the making of a real object, that would be worn by people, and with my name on it. When you create, or wish to create a very different style, you have to face and solve all the questions.” (2019)
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Donald Hubbard
Image Credit: Nick Machalaba On his design principles:
“I don’t say much. I prefer to let my own work talk for me. But there is a lot going on inside. I am burning up like a hot ball of fire.” (1969)
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Beth Levine
Image Credit: Tony Palmieri/Fairchild Archives On her design principles:
“I often say, ‘[design] is just like cooking; you learn.’ I never had the opportunity to go to art school. My sketching is shameful. I visualize something on my own foot. … We made shoes you wanted to have. We tried to make pretty shoes and experimented with leather and fabric.” (2005)
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Christian Louboutin
Image Credit: Shayan Asgharnia/FN On staying motivated during challenging times:
“When times are tough and you’re in a year where there are wars or problems, fashion gets more important. The more things are morose, the more you need excitement. A shoe is protection against morosity.” (2017)
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Amina Muaddi
Image Credit: Emmanuel Fradin/FN On inspirational creative talents:
“It’s still a male-dominated industry, not just in footwear but also fashion. You still see that at the helm of most houses are men. But we’ve also had some women designers who have inspired me, like Charlotte Olympia or Tamara Mellon. I was happy to see that growing up. Because as a woman, it shows you that there is room for you there. In my case, being a woman, being a minority, I’m happy to be an example for future generations.” (2022)
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Edgardo Osorio
Image Credit: Courtesy of Aquazzura On staying motivated during challenging times:
“My job is not designing shoes; my job is to make people happy with everything that I do. And I want to communicate that. I hope that when customers come to us, they feel that happiness.” (2024)
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Gianvito Rossi
Image Credit: Courtesy of Gianvito Rossi On creating an iconic shoe:
“The Portofino sandal embodies the essence of my vision: beauty in simplicity and quality, as well as in the attention to proportions. Its design is conceived to enhance a woman’s silhouette rather than prevail over her.” (2024)
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Roger Vivier
Image Credit: Guy Marineau/Fairchild Archive On his design principles:
“Anyone can make clothes. It’s a question of cutting the fabric right. But shoes are very different. It’s very complicated, and I like that.” (1988)
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Stuart Weitzman
Image Credit: Glenn Castellano/New York Historical Society On his design principles:
“Being able to create the product and seeing women love it. That’s what got me into this game. Early on, I couldn’t get over the idea that I made something and she wanted it. The thrill for every designer is still there. When you make something that gets voted on with a ‘Yes, I’ll buy it,’ that’s the best satisfaction.” (2017)
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Giuseppe Zanotti
Image Credit: courtesy of Zanotti On staying motivated during challenging times:
“You’re not God, so you can’t know exactly what will happen. This work is full of problems and risks. But you have to trust your instincts. You put your love into it and do your best.” (2014)