NEW YORK — Fabrics are getting crafty.
Last week’s pair of fall 2005 textile design shows — Directions and Printsource, both held at the Hotel Pennsylvania here — showed an increased amount of embellished and decorated looks that were largely bohemian in nature. Unlike past seasons, however, the look was more refined and sophisticated.
“My biggest observation at both shows was that things were not as casual as in the past,” said Allison Trunzo, design manager for cut-and-sew knits at Talbots. “Everything was more on a sportswear level.”
Of particular interest for Trunzo were the variety of paisleys and many of the burnouts, which she said were a “new way to do a knit that we haven’t done in a while.”
Decorated looks made an appearance at a number of exhibitors. At Printsource, Spoogi offered a nature theme, complete with trees and other botanicals, in both embroideries and prints. The Style Council, also at Printsource, featured stenciled, folksy motifs.
Chris Judge, who specializes in knits and exhibited at Printsource, showed fine crochets and a group of vintage lace looks. The nature theme continued at David Lee Designs, which was represented at Printsource by Catherine B. Designs, with embroidered and appliquéd images of trees, rivers and birds layered to create a collage effect.
At Tom Cody, also at Printsource, vintage-like embroideries featured feathers, beads and paillettes.
“Anything ethnic, decorative and pretty is doing well for us this season,” Cody said.
Edmond Designs showed appliquéd florals on a men’s wear-like plaid ground. “Plaids are definitely key going forward,” said owner David Edmond.
At Directions, many of the same themes abounded. The Colorfield showed bohemian florals, foulards and nonliteral animal skins, which all got strong reaction, according to co-owner Adam Read. Milkprint displayed a group of decorative embroideries and softly styled paisleys.
“Paisleys have been especially strong for us,” said designer Sarah Gordon.
A “warrior, ethnic look” was key at Brewster, also at Directions, according to owner Paul Brewster. Prints were faded and bohemian in nature and included a set of paisleys on rich velvet that he said sold out immediately.
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At Directions’ Code — which has embroidery, print, woven and knit divisions — the look was soft and feminine. Highlights included ethnic rubber prints on organza; knits with varying stitch structures that included tassels, baubles and beads, and quiet embroideries such as light quilting with overembroidered lines, spots and flowers.
Color for the new season was influenced by the Bloomsbury era. Jerry Dellova, design director at Barry Bricken, said he felt strongly about mulberry and teal.
“It’s important to ground these colors with camel or charcoal gray so they don’t look too spring,” he said.
Directions vendor Westcott featured teal, mauve, berry and amethyst, according to owner Peter Westcott. Brewster focused on chocolate browns mixed with jewel tones, while at The Colorfield, Read noted that teals and deep raspberries were doing well. Teals and plums were also an important addition to the palette at The Works, an exhibitor at Printsource.
“The blue reds are stronger this season than the pink reds,” said Lisa James, director at The Works.