The rough economic waters have tossed swimwear makers for a loop, but they are reevaluating their assortments and chasing opportunities in the niche industry, aiming to recapture growth when calm returns to the macro environment.
With about 30 vendors, the small swimwear exhibitor segment at WWDMAGIC in Las Vegas is half the size — or less — of what it was at previous august shows during this decade. Swim’s shrinking presence reflects manufacturers cutting back on trade show budgets due to the category’s recent poor fortunes. Data from research firm The NPD Group reveals U.S. sales for adult swimwear dipped 6.9 percent to nearly $4.13 billion in the year ending in June. In contrast, domestic swimwear sales gained 6.6 percent to total around $4.43 billion for the comparable period a year earlier. The average swimsuit in the year ending June was priced at $16.41, more than a dollar off the $17.51 average a year ago.
In the battered marketplace, swimwear vendors have to be creative to attract attention from retailers big and little.
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“You either have to inspire them or be one step faster than them,” said Natalia Wierzba, national sales manager and merchandiser at Beach Rays, a division of Southern California swimwear manufacturer J.Y. rays. “You have to be on trend and know what the market is bearing.”
To stand out from the pack, vendors are identifying nooks — from chic control to plus-size juniors — where they can make a mark.
“There is an upside to this [recession] situation,” said Michael Schimmel, president of swimwear firm Dani Kates Corp., which has offices in New York and Miami. “The companies that are conscientious, that recognize where and how to spend certain dollars, will probably not only ride it out, but come out on the better side.”
Appealing to swimwear clientele with D cups or greater has been a lucrative strategy for a number of swimwear brands. Schimmel pointed out that Dani Kate’s new namesake signature label at $29 to $41 wholesale is going up to dd. “There are a lot of women who want fashionable swimwear that fits,” he said. “There is a real need for designer swimwear with larger bust sizes.”
At Harbor City, Calif.-based swim maker Sunsets Inc., marketing and merchandising director Eden Struss stressed D and E cup sizes are crucial for the brand Swim Systems, which has bottoms wholesaling from $23 to $31 and tops from $25 to $31. She noted a majority of Swim Systems tops feature D cups and a new tankini style comes in a D cup as well. “Women are getting bigger, honestly, and so sizes are getting bigger,” said Struss.
It’s not only older swim customers who are looking for liberally sized suits. Junior customers are on the hunt for them, too. New York-based Winki Swim LLC has introduced plus sizes from 16 to 24 for juniors in its line Winki Island. “We want the plus size woman to have something cute and fashionable,” said Winki Swim brand manager Marcella Garcia. Winki Island wholesales at $45 for a set on average.
Ample or not, swimwear consumers past their teens desire coverage, but that doesn’t mean they don’t crave fashion. New York-based A & H Sportswear, maker of Miraclesuit and MagicSuit swimwear, is trying to satisfy that hunger for fashion with MagicSuit, at $45 to $80 wholesale, while Miraclesuit averages about $65.
The company has fully revamped five-year-old MagicSuit to make it what vice president of marketing and merchandising Paula Morse called a “print- and hardware-driven young, sophisticated control line.”
“Being in the control business right now is hot,” she said, “but, in essence, retailers only had one line that was control, and that was Miraclesuit. Now, they have an opportunity to capitalize on something they have already been doing well with.”
The cover-up business also continues to be brisk. Miraclesuit has launched cover-up items, including scarf pareos, tunics and dresses, that can be merchandised with its swimwear and wholesale at around $34 to $42. “We feel like the Miraclesuit customer wants a Micarclesuit ensemble, the whole get-up,” said Rita Mulloy, a major account executive with Miraclesuit.
No matter the item, however, price remains what many retailers consider first. After season upon season of climbing prices, swimwear tags appear to have fallen. Following an assessment, Sunsets Inc.-owned swimwear line b. Swim slashed its retail prices by about 20 percent. “Staying competitive is important,” explained Nikol Roberts, b. Swim designer. “The surf brands have lower prices generally and we share racks….We want to be that boutique brand that still attracts the surf customer.”
With all the adjustments made to court retailers and customers, swim vendors hope they will whet consumers’ appetites once they feel economically secure again. While recently showing Sunsets’ lines, Struss said, “Retailers were positive. They were looking for 2010 to be a new start.”