Vendors exhibiting in WWDMAGIC’S premium segment, a recent addition to the show, are entering with the knowledge that they’ll need to attract retailers with a balance of proven sales winners and unique products.
While the worst of the recession might have passed, vendors realize that retailers are still waiting for their customers to return in force. As a result, it’s likely that those retailers will opt to chase business rather than burdening themselves with excess inventory. That said, the mood has greatly improved and retail buyers aren’t necessarily looking to play it safe when it comes to style.
Rick Guido, owner and designer of Noblita, launched his business four years ago with what he dubs “nondenim jeans.”
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“It looks like denim, but it feels like french terry, which is a knit,” said Guido. The Los Angeles-based label sells to Fred Segal, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s, among others, with price points ranging from $100 to $120. Noblita has also expanded into tops and motorcycle jackets to match its nondenim jeans looks.
Guido said he’s added a lot of extra detail work to the collection ahead of the show, including studs, patches and hand-painting work.
“We’re adding things like studding on the waistband, belt loops and pocket treatments,” said Guido. “We’re adding 200 to 300 studs around the waistband. We’re also adding patches — we believe patches are going to be very hot.”
Guido said he’s seen the business environment improve even from the beginning of the year. Retailers, he said, now have a clear picture of where their businesses stand and the direction in which they are going to head. They also want to bring in goods within four to six weeks.
“They’re looking [for] much closer [deliveries],” he said. “I think they’re looking for anything new and different. I think they have enough jeans lines.”
Jared Langleben, owner and designer of New York-based Jared Lang, which specializes in men’s and women’s woven shirts, said his collection will focus on prints. Like Guido, Langleben has also added more details to the line, including double buttons and stitching on collars and cuffs.
“Detail work is strong and for next season, we believe prints is the up-and-coming trend,” said Langleben.
Langleben says retailers are still reluctant to buy new lines unless they have a unique perspective.
“They’ll only buy what sells — unless there’s something eye-catching,” he said. “The new guys are going to have to be really strong and powerful and have something unique in the industry.”
Marguerite Moye, designer for Erge Designs and new brand Eyelid, said retailers aren’t limiting themselves to one or two trends, so Erge is playing with several. Moye has seen a return of oversize Eighties looks combined with the return of leggings. “We’re trying to do a bit of both,” she said, adding that she’d even used small shoulder pads in a few items. The line will also incorporate tie-dye effects. Moye said she’s working with a lot of burnouts this season.
“We try and put a little bit of everything out there,” she said. “From us, people love color. They don’t want to see drab.”
Like Moye, Alex Vedder, brand manager for juniors label Closet Romantic, sees an opportunity for mixing trends.
“We’re seeing a lot of grunge coming through,” said Vedder.
Closet Romantic launched in July and is one of the new labels aiming to appeal to retailers with an edgy look at a good price.
“We’re focusing on bringing in that grunge trend but mixing with a little more girly,” she said. “Our line is feminine-meets-edgy.”
Vedder believes retailers will be looking for looks that are easy to wear and comfortable. “A lot of our burnout stuff has done great, as well as our looser styles,” she said.
She also feels the pressure from retailers to offer more for the money.
“Like they have been doing for the last year or so, retailers are looking for lines that stick out and are at a great price point,” said Vedder. “They want more value for the money they’re spending.”