MIAMI BEACH — The dead calm men’s swimwear market is seeing some waves.
After years of urban-inspired bagginess and long lengths, blah neutrals and poor construction, the category’s reinvention was splashed all over Swimwear Association of Florida’s 29th annual SwimShow, as well as the Salon Allure trade show at the W hotel here last month. Vendors exhibited midthigh cuts and shorter in vibrant solids and prints normally reserved for women’s and children’s. If styles ran to just above the knee, they were at least tapered. Suits also borrowed supportive linings from underwear and non-elastic waistbands from Bermuda shorts, while details such as metals tips and nautical ties further elevated product.
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“I’m really excited about this beach to street versatility,” said Daniel Skahen, owner of Evolution men’s boutique in Key West, Fla. “A two-in-one item they can also wear to lunch or cocktails is a useful sales tool.”
Describing a seersucker model from 2xist as his showstopper, creative director Jason Scarlatti said: “Now I’m concentrating on crazier colors and prints.”
Don Niemann, director of merchandising and buying for Ron Jon Surf Shop, a specialty chain based in Cocoa Beach, Fla., also said color has led to an explosion in his men’s business.
“We weren’t prepared for the response and couldn’t get the reorders we needed,” he said, adding customers of all ages are also requesting fixed versus elastic waists. “Even our older gentleman is dressing younger.”
2xist’s vice president Ralph Beyda estimated he would open 25 new accounts at SwimShow for swimsuits retailing from $70 to $135. Bestsellers were a woven with 14-inch inseam and lace-up ties, and a knit boyshort. A “Bondi” brief-style knit suit and scanter “Rio” resonated with Latin American buyers.
Papi’s president and chief operating officer Alan Zelcer reported that wovens resulted in more than 30 orders for the company’s newly launched swimwear line.
Yet another underwear connection gained momentum since SwimShow added lingerie this year. SAF executive director Judy Stein said lingerie and men’s are growing categories. “We’ve always had men’s as divisions of women’s companies, but we’re aggressively going after underwear and men’s swim on their own,” she said of a selection, which also offered Sundek, Agua de Coco, Osklen, Retro Marine and Calvin Klein.
Swim brands launched or expanded their lifestyle offerings. For its second men’s season, Colombia-based OndadeMar added cotton and linen shirts, shorts and pants. New styles including embroidered tunics and modern guayaberas brought in 45 new accounts, according to chief executive officer José Santos, who plans to increase stockkeeping units after testing a capsule collection in the company’s freestanding stores in Latin America.
“There’s major potential in the men’s casual chic market inspired by leaders like Vilebrequin,” he said.
West Palm Beach, Fla.-based Island Company has also benefited from this trend. Creative Director Spencer Antle reported its white linen shirt continually performs in the top five sellers at Ritz-Carlton resort stores. He increased the assortment in items such as jersey polos and long-sleeved button downs, and plans to move forward with sweaters, cover-ups and military/safari outerwear.
Parke & Ronen, whose 2012 swimwear ranges from Gaudí mosaic prints to Hawaiian boardshorts, returned to its sportswear roots with pieces like Bermuda shorts in a cotton twill blend with plaid details retailing for $108, Eighties color-blocked tanks and preppy grosgrain ribbon belts and totes.
Diesel increased its men’s swim assortment by 30 percent with an upgraded offering with more metal and trim and reversible bright tones retailing from $55 to $165.
At Salon Allure, Charlie by Matthew Zink got buzz for a trim, short suit with gold buttons that buyers called very Don Draper of “Mad Men.” “Most men’s suits are logo-driven, so I went for the sophisticated retro man,” said the designer.