Cinq à Sept, Tanya Taylor Fall 2025 and More Contemporary Brands at NYFW

Designer Jane Siskin continued her affinity for Western wear for the fall 2025 season, creating a collection that balanced airy feminine dresses with tougher denim and velvet looks. 

The look: A feminine, Western-inspired aesthetic with rich velvet separates, airy feminine florals and sultry leathers. 

Quote of note: “We started pre-fall in this Americana prairie vibe and we’re continuing it into the fall,” Siskin said. “It has a touch of Western, but we love the romance of prairie. It’s the trailblazers going across the country into those dusty saloons and the girls in the back — that whole vibe is what inspired us.” 

Standout pieces: Feminine floral dresses in burgundy and blush tones, structured denim sets and embellished faux fur jackets. 

Takeaway: Cinq à Sept’s fall 2025 collection showed the brand’s understanding of its feminine clientele and how to bring newness to core silhouettes each season. 

Quote of Note: “Celebrating the wins from last night, dressed in the wins from last night,” Theophilio’s Edvin Thompson told WWD as he celebrated his being included in the spring 2025 Met “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” exhibition.

The look: Titled “The Morning After,” Theophilio’s fall 2025 collection was a continuation of transformation, resilience and labor. Highlighting the inception of the brand, the collection consisted of wool satin tops, heavy ribbed knit 3D stripping in a range of an asymmetric dress and polo.

Standout: The star of the show was a captivating coatdress with a corset lacing in faux fur pony hair; also, blending in his continuation of the “newsboy hat” in an oversize fit and different textures like mink.

Takeaway: Thompson isn’t one to shy away from colors, textures and playful silhouettes and it showed in the duality of his garments becoming functional wear from day to night and a balance between hard and soft.

Following his recent travels to India, Kobi Halperin took inspiration from the Maha Kumbh Mela and their spiritual traditions to create a sense of unity and authenticity in his fall 2025 collection.

The look: The contrast of traditional garments with subtle modern touches was shown throughout the collection — with neutral-colored tailored suits but with a twist of draping with Halperin’s beaded tops which are symbolic to the sacred malas that were styled on top of a traditional suit but could be worn alone.

The standout: The flower garlands were another standout in relation to the rituals and embroidered through the floral dresses and head pieces on the runway.

The takeaway: Seeing individuals come together was a transformative experience for Halperin.

Quote of Note: “I thought that if all religion would be opened to accepting everybody the way that they are, we can all connect on a spiritual and energy level,” he told WWD.

L’Agence fashion director Tara Rudes Dann turned back the clock at Grand Central Terminal for a “Romantic Voyage” collection presentation, celebrating bygone eras and the brand’s global retail push.  

The Look: ‘30s screen siren meets ‘70s mob boss. 

Quote of Note: “It’s about traveling through the journey of our woman’s life,” said Rudes Dann. “In 2024, we took her on an actual journey, opening in Korea and Paris and the new store on Madison Avenue.” For the clothes, she added, “It’s a journey through the most amazing cities, it’s about having the best packed suitcase to take her from day to night.” 

Standout pieces: Velvet Le Smoking tuxedos, one refashioned into a double-breasted gown; satin slips with built-in cups for extra va-va-voom; black cocktail minis with gold crest buttons; men’s tailoring in nubby brown heritage fabrics jauntily styled with sweeping overcoats, ties and fedoras tipped to one side; black and wine-colored leather outerwear with moto studs or western fringe; a cozy knit paisley blanket cape. 

Takeaway: Rudes Dann zhuzhed up L’Agence’s bestsellers with impressive details befitting her whimsical travel theme. And while evening wear isn’t the first thing you think of when you hear the denim brand’s name, it should at least be a close second.

An avid collector, Nina Arias was inspired by Sheila Hicks’ sculptural weaving, recently acquiring one of the contemporary artist’s small-scale works herself. 

The Look: Gallerina on-the-go.

Quote of Note: “This is a full wardrobing collection,” explained Arias during a showroom preview, “so my idea was that it can all be packed up, and she can go anywhere in the world and look on-point and chic from day-to-night.”

Standout Pieces: A black crepe wrap dress with attached capelet; a draped body-con sheath in midnight blue rayon; red and blue marled cashmere knit polos and drop-shoulder cardigans worn with cropped flare trousers; a cropped tweed bomber jacket and floral ruffle skirt; a black velvet evening coat with jeweled buttons and matching pinafore.

Takeaway: Arias presented a well-edited curation of fall essentials, adding a few choice flourishes her arty clientele might enjoy. Noteworthy was her foray into knits with yummy cashmeres as a direct nod to Hicks.

Skipping the runway, Theory lifted the curtain on its manufacturing process with a step-by-step look at how the fall collection – an evolution of seven essential garments – was made. 

The Look: ‘90s New York City slicker, on and off duty.

Quote of Note: “This season we really took inspiration from ‘theory,’“ said Dushane Noble, head of the brand’s womenswear. “The word itself invokes this idea of thoughtfulness.” His mission was to “recontextualize the familiar” with unexpected fabrics and a more relaxed fit. According to Theory’s head of menswear, Martin Andersson, New York was the other driving force: “The people that make up the city, the lifestyle they live. It’s a guy on-the-go who needs to look chic at all times.”

Standout pieces: Fluid tailoring in midnight blue washable silk and a great flannel trouser skirt with inverted pleats for women; sporty tonal charcoal and chocolate suiting for men; cashmere sweat, technical funnel-neck puffers and reversible shearling coats for all.

Takeaway: To borrow Noble’s word, Theory’s presentation concept was “thoughtfully” executed, underscoring the attention that goes into bringing it’s wardrobe staples from ideation to store shelves.

Stacey Bendet penned an opulent ode to Shakespeare, citing the bard’s greatest hits, from “Macbeth” to “Romeo and Juliet.”

The Look: English Renaissance theater diva.

Quote of Note: “The theme is ‘Shakespeare in Love,’” said Bendet during her Meatpacking District presentation. She and her team trawled through the Royal Shakespeare Company’s archives, looking at old costumes for inspiration. “I wanted the collection to feel really rich and elegant. It’s going to be expensive, so it should look it.”

Standout Pieces: Needle stitch poetry sweaters; Victorian and sergeant-style denim jackets worn over tops with exaggerated ruffle cuffs; sequin and gem-colored velvet suiting; gold boucle skirt sets; tapestry fabric corsets and party frocks; floral drop-waist princess gowns, and a column with stained-glass embroidery. 

Takeaway: If Bendet was looking at archival costumes, it showed and she may have gone overboard at the trimmings shop. Still, there were some fun pieces in the mix that could leap from stage to street.

Retrofête founder Ohad Seroya made sure his girl is the life of the party in any era.

The Look: Time-travelling glamor puss in a Helmut Newton photograph.

Quote of Note: “My inspiration was this mixing of ‘60s, ‘70s, ‘80s and ‘90s to make it feel unique and fresh,” said Seroya, adding that feminine and masculine dichotomies were also part of fall’s concoction. “So it’s taking all the trends that I feel are the Retrofête girl, and putting it all in one.”

Standout Pieces: ‘60s Mod shifts and balloon waist gowns, one with floral crystal beading and a velvet bow back; ‘70s flare jeans, thrift-store fur chubbies and a boho maxi in gold lurex paisley; ‘80s organza pouf dresses and patent leather jackets; ‘90s “Clueless” tartan and houndstooth tailoring. 

Takeaway: Seroya continued to bring his diva out in broad daylight with an increased focused on denim, suiting and outerwear. Still, his after-dark offering shined here with more sophisticated cuts and luxe trims.

The designer continued the Western and romantic themes of her pre-fall collection with new takes on her signature feminine silhouettes.

The look: Effortless feminine dresses, new takes on uniform dressing, cozy knits and exciting embroidery. 

Quote of note: “I definitely wanted to continue on themes that we started in pre-fall, but I got really excited about some of the fabrications that we have been doing like suedes, leathers and denim, and I think I wanted to maybe consider just how to push some of the mixing within each piece.” 

Standout pieces: A black and green, hand-drawn floral dress, a pin-striped skirt with beaded embroidery and a sheer organza tuxedo-style polka dot shirt. 

Takeaway: Taylor’s collection showed her ability to bring newness to traditional silhouettes through embroidery, floral prints and various fabrics and how to make an array of styles exude a romantic vibe.  

Designer Patricia Bonaldi looked to her Brazilian heritage for her fall 2025 PatBo collection, creating a lineup that merged a couture-like aesthetic with a Carnival inspiration. 

The look: Avant garde, crystal-embellished styles in sexy silhouettes. 

Quote of note: “In Brazil, Carnival is super close to fashion,” Bonaldi said. “Maybe people think it’s only on the streets, but we live Carnival in many ways. We have the vogue ball, which is the couture ball — it’s when Carnival meets couture — so my background has passed through these moments. I think it was a great moment to show our culture and how I started, so this is a Carnival capsule.” 

Standout piece: An intricate, crystal-embellished floral breast piece paired with a ruffled metallic maxi skirt, a cascading crystal bra paired with a jersey black skirt and a sheer flowing dress with crystal details. 

Takeaway: Bonaldi’s fall 2025 collection showcased her Brazilian roots and her expertise in merging sensual styles with intricate embellishments. 

Its biggest collection to date, Cara Cara’s fall lineup expanded the brand’s range with feminine styles across dresses, suiting and separates that played into its strengths in prints and silhouettes. 

The look: A return-from-summer-vacation vibe with bold and feminine takes on officewear, warm outerwear and new versions of Cara Cara’s signature dresses in darker colors and patterns. 

Quote of note: “It’s supposed to hark back to New York in the fall, heels clicking on pavement and just that exciting feeling of being back,” said Kate Driscoll, content manager at Cara Cara.

Standout pieces: A pin-striped vest with oversize gold hardware, fashion-forward tweed office styles, a black floral maxidress and new leopard print silhouettes. 

Takeaway: Cara Cara’s fall 2025 collection further showed the brand’s strength in creating a range of feminine styles and how it delivers newness through exciting prints.

Inspired by Swiss heiress Annemarie Schwarzenbach and the automotive, Vince’s Caroline Belhumeur used the two to add moments of texture to liven up her take on minimalism.

The look: 90’s minimalism but softer, fluid and romantic.  

Quote of Note: “It’s about those little touches that make it special,” Belhumeur said of her work.

Key pieces: Pencil skirts, pressed plaid coat with leather trim, double layered asymmetric dress, monk strap shoes, cashmere sweaters in blush tones, straight-leg pants with fitted blazers, leather jackets.

Takeaway: Belhumeur continues to elevate Vince season after season with pieces that focus on sumptuous fabrics and smart design nuances, which make each piece feel special.

In a brand first since its founder departed, Derek Lam 10 Crosby showed presentation style — on Crosby Street no less — helping to breathe life into the collection. ”We’re coming back to our roots,” Yana Popov, design director said, noting the studio was once just down the block.

The look: Urban sophisticated with a slight touch of edge. Popov’s inspiration was a French New Wave film from 1961, “L’Année dernière à Marienbad.”

Quote of note: “As designers, I think we’re storytellers. It’s the vibe, and it’s how the clothes feel and move on the body,” she said, adding she wanted it to be “wearable for the woman, the New York woman.”

Key pieces: Novelty denim pieces with studs and sequins, loafers in collaboration with Freda Salvador, mixed media dresses, painterly polka dot print on suits and dresses, A-line skirts, pleated shirts, sheer knits.

Takeaway: Showing pieces presentation style helped bring life to Papov’s designs, which still give a nod to the brand history with pajama pants, shirt dresses, boxy blazers for work — but shown here in a new modern way.

The look: Refined boho with the tension of  masculinity and femininity.

Quote of note: “It’s a milestone that I am really proud of,” Sandra Sandor said of celebrating two decades in business. “This collection is a tribute to the evolution of the Nanushka woman and how she has grown and matured over the years, together with me in a way. The woman I am designing for today is a refined bohemian — an elegant free spirit who moves with intention, honoring our connection with nature and the wisdom of holistic living.”

Key pieces: Chunky knits, strong shoulders on blazers, duvet puffers, tailored outerwear, faux fur, a new Harmonica bag in three sizes. “We added this ‘peeling back’ design feature for ready-to-wear this season, which is a reference to our foldable Origami bag,” she said, naming a satin dress with a foldback bust detail, and a monochrome satin and paper jersey foldback skirt as key ideas.

Takeaway: After two decades the brand feels fresh as ever with Sandor continuing to evolve ideas on sustainability and textiles with thoughtful design that reads seasonless.