DALLAS — Fallout from the economic downturn set the agenda for retailers who bought close to delivery and focused on price at the three-season market here.
Stores booked immediate goods to fill in holes for spring and selected carefully from April and May deliveries of summer product. A higher number of vendors than usual showed fall, and buyers at the four-day show that ended Jan. 21 at the Dallas Market Center said they were eager for something new.
Bestselling trends included kimono-sleeve and draped dresses, skinny jeans, leggings, easy cardigans and sweaters, short rompers, colorful prints in rich hues, and details such as ruffles, sequins, sparkle and lace on tops and eveningwear. Skirts began making a comeback.
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“Most of the business we wrote was immediate deliveries in the next 60 days, a lot of novelty,” said sales rep Butch Plott, who shows updated misses labels such as Kay Celine. “Our traffic was definitely ahead of last year — it was such a slow ’09 market. The stores were more optimistic.”
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Allyson Cooke, who shows Language and other contemporary resources at her showroom, called Launch, said, “I beat ’09 and ’08 [January market], so I’m real pleased.”
Michael Singer, a partner in Brad Hughes & Associates showroom, which represents dozens of labels including Lafayette 148 and Nicole Miller, said, “The good is outweighing the bad, but not for every store and not every week.”
David Rhea, owner of Indigo Agency, a specialist in premium denim and contemporary sportswear, said, “People were here to write immediate business and were in a good mood because holiday was very successful, given the economy, and their inventory levels are clean. People are confident they’ve hit the bottom, and now they know how to run their business.”
Cindy Morris, chief operating officer of the Dallas Market Center, said she saw energy and momentum that helped to create “an overall successful market for both buyers and sellers.”
Stores said they were spending no more than last year for spring and summer.
“It’s challenging, but our Christmas season was up to expectations,” said Linda Deutsch, owner of Joe Brand, an upscale store in Laredo, Tex. “The customer is motivated by newness, things with detail and something to spruce up their wardrobe. My budget is the same as last year, but I’m spending more in contemporary sportswear and tops.”
On her agenda: ruched tops by Gender Bias and colorful printed looks from Natorious.
“Where’s the newness?” asked John Maguire, dress buyer for Tootsies, which has units in Houston, Dallas and Atlanta. “I’m looking for bright colors, inexpensive cotton runaround dresses and go-to-wedding dresses. Chetta B looked good.”
In addition, Tootsies’ buyer Jennifer Cunningham picked up A.G., J Brand, Seven For All Mankind, Citizens of Humanity and James Jeans for the new denim bar opening this spring at the Dallas store.
“It will feature complimentary while-you-shop jeans alterations in our jeans atelier,” Cunningham said.
Callie Saitowitz, owner of two BB1 Classic stores in Houston, said December business was good, but January was not.
“It’s still soft out there, and if we can survive it has to turn around,” she said. “We’re looking for style, fit, price and value, and it’s all about lifestyle.”
Saitowitz, who is considering closing one of her stores when the lease is up this spring, is worried a growing number of shoppers are demanding 20 percent discounts or price parity with major stores. She turns them down but knows she risks losing them. However, she has decided to give discounts to select loyal shoppers who have fallen on hard times.
“My vendors have been incredible and we want to help our customers through,” she said.
Saitowitz’s shopping list included novelty tops in mixed fabrics and prints by Desigual, and tailored bridge sportswear by Luisa Cerano and Marc Aurel.
“I like Dallas market because you get a lot of different price points,” said Sharie Reid, who owns SJR Couture, a two-year-old store in League City, Tex., near Galveston. “My customers want trends, but they don’t want to pay the price.”
Reid planned to mix up D&G logo cuffs and jewelry with ruffled chiffon tops from Tres Bien Clothing and embroidered denim jeans from Grace L.A.