The spring 2022 runways of Paris Couture Week roared back to life to the delight of live audiences, from the clients back in their front-row seats as well as celebrities including Ye, the artist formerly known as Kanye West, and new flame Julia Fox at Schiaparelli; Pharrell Williams and Margot Robbie at Chanel; Michelle Yeoh at Elie Saab, and TV stars Laverne Cox and Christine Chiu.
But as thrilling as this felt, this was not a season of OTT, although grand gestures abounded from houses big and small.
Here are some of the trends that emerged from the couture shows in Paris, where designers homed in on cuts, doubled down on the body’s contours and played with the infinite possibilities of black-and-white.
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GRAY MATTER: There was a cerebral bent to Paris Couture Week this season, as designers opted for austere looks focused on cut and shape, rather than decoration, like this elegant pleated cape jacket and skirt by Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior.
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IN REVERSE: There was plenty of color on the Paris couture runways for spring, but designers also exhibited the many moods of black-and-white — from the ornate, as seen here in a look from Schiaparelli by Daniel Roseberry, to the minimalistic.
GRAND GESTURES: The return to physical shows brought exuberance back to the runways — or the digital expressions, with couturiers going for grand gestures to express themselves, from Elie Saab’s Garden of Eden bouquets to emerging whiz kid Charles de Vilmorin setting one of his colorful designs ablaze.
TIGHT SQUEEZE: Body-con comes to couture, taking the short and tight look as the starting point to explore the season’s desire for a celebration of the human form in all its varieties, with couturiers including Glenn Martens for Jean Paul Gaultier and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino playing with a wide repertoire that goes from leggy minis and snug tube dresses to dramatic swirls of fabric and sharp cuts that encase without constricting.
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Couture Trend: Body-con Makes a Comeback
Spring 2022 Couture Trend: Grand Gestures