CLOUD NINE: The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode’s Sphere showroom and incubator highlighted the work of nine designers this season, up from seven in March. They ranged from young labels on the official Paris calendar including Florentina Leitner, Weinsanto and Vautrait to relative newbies.
Riz Poli and J. Simone were the debuts this session at Sphere, which is backed by Committee for the Development and Promotion of French Clothing, better known by its acronym DEFI, and L’Oréal Paris, and held at the Palais de Tokyo during fashion week.
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Riz Poli’s Chen Xu, originally from China, trained as an industrial designer in the car industry before deciding his real passion was for fashion. After studying at Esmod and working at Y/Project under Glenn Martens, he decided to create his own label, which launched in 2022. His trompe l’oeil knits and leather T-shirts were among the highlights in his spring collection, which was inspired by Pablo Neruda’s poem “Ode to Bread.”
Central Saint Martins graduate Jude Ferrari, meanwhile, created her colorful J. Simone label in 2023 with the aim of challenging notions of taste. Her collections are made with upcycled and deadstock fabrics.
Sonney, by Lora Sonney, originally from the Jura mountains, was showing for the second time. The designer was a finalist for the Hyères Festival in 2022, and created a capsule line for AZ Factory in 2023 before winning the IFM x Ami prize last year. Sonney created her own material from waste hose pipes using a patent-pending technique. The resulting plastic features abstract blurred motifs and is crafted into sculptural accessories like bags and belts. The motifs are then photographed and transposed onto voluminous printed silk organza pieces that make up her ready-to-wear.
Crochet specialist Marco Rambaldi, from Bologna, was also showing in Paris for the second time thanks to a partnership with the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. While Rambaldi stages a runway show in Milan, the Paris initiative is currently his only showroom. Charles de Vilmorin and upcycling specialist Sevali, from Paris-based Chilean designer Sebastien A. de Ruffray, made up the Sphere contingent for Spring 2026.
For Florentina Leitner it was her last time participating in the showcase at the Palais de Tokyo, which is limited to three years, or six seasons. “I am considering where to go next, whether I should join a multibrand showroom or stage my own,” said the designer, a dilemma shared by any number of emerging creatives looking for exposure during Paris Fashion Week as they continue to build their reach.