NEW YORK — Sometimes bigger isn’t necessarily better.
Designers unveiling their accessories looks on the runway and in other presentations during fashion week were asking their customers to try on something new for size.
Minaudières, clutches, envelope silhouettes and all manner of smaller purses made a comeback after several seasons of being overshadowed by hobos with gigantic proportions. Although fashion-industry executives said it isn’t quite time to send the big bag packing, they agreed that the shows marked a change in direction: Evolution has shaken up the standing handbag hierarchy and broadened the range of options in the lucrative category.
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“It’s been a while since I’ve seen small bags,” said Valerie Steele, director of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology here. “When I was working on my book in 2000 about handbags, there were already lots of big handbags. They were like mother ships. It’s an interesting comment on the daily life of women in today’s culture. People seem to be living out of their bags like suitcases. With what we saw on the runways…I don’t think it’s a signal that we’re seeing the end of big bags. It’s more about offering another choice for a handbag wardrobe.”
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Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director at Henri Bendel, said the big bag in some form is an essential part of a woman’s lifestyle.
“But designers are playing with proportions this season and accessories are a huge part of that,” she added. “We have already seen that the clutch is becoming more important for us at retail and, based on what we saw coming down the runways this week, I think it will be very important going forward.”
Robert Duffy, president of Marc Jacobs, said that, to better complement the brand’s spring ready-to-wear, Marc Jacobs showcased smaller bags, including a quilted silhouette that models carried in one hand during the runway presentation on Monday night, letting the chain-link strap dangle below.
“Last season we showed clothes that were layered and had a lot of volume,” Duffy said. “The oversized bags made sense with that look. Now it’s progressed. The proportion of clothes has changed. The clothes still have volume, but that volume is much closer to the body. And the fabrics are more fragile and lighter in feel. The smaller bag works better with that look.”
Derek Lam, which showed its second season of handbags on the runway, included spacious and petite styles, from a roomy doctor’s bag that had structure but was still soft and pliable in deerskin leather to a flat patent leather bag meant to be tucked under the shoulder.
“For spring, you don’t want to look encumbered by huge accessories,” said designer Derek Lam. “You want to emphasize a sort of lightness and softness.”
Lam added that women who don’t live in a city don’t always need a huge carryall, and that having a range of sizes gives them more options.
“Everyone loves the big bag, but it’s very much an urban phenomenon,” he said. “Outside of the city, you’re jumping in and out of a car.”
Sandra Wilson, accessories fashion director for Neiman Marcus, said women will look to the smaller bag to hold their essentials.
“Handbags are going to continue strongly for spring,” Wilson predicted. “The clutch is important, as is the smaller shoulder handbag that is slimmer and more classic in shape. The oversized tote will still continue to be important, but it may act as a carryall for the smaller bags.”
Ikram Goldman, owner of the specialty store Ikram in Chicago, said she started offering smaller bags to customers last year from vendors such as Devi Kroell and Lambertson Truex.
“I’ll continue forward with that,” she said. “That said, I still believe there’s a need for a bigger bag. It’s about the day in the life of a working woman. There are so many elements and things that a working woman needs to carry and will continue to need to carry with them. But I think it’s about providing a range for women to choose from, even though that range may be shifting toward a smaller bag.”
Steve Dumain, designer and co-founder with Be Inthavong of handbag brand Be&D, which built its business in 2004 on the success of its huge Crawford hobo accented with an oversized buckle on its wide strap, said they are doing a lot more smaller bags for spring. Key looks previewed at a party this month include patent leather clutches in bright hues such as lime and fuchsia.
“I think for those women who carried bigger bags to make a fashion statement, they will choose to go back to smaller bags,” Dumain said. “But there are a lot of women who are not going to let go of their stuff. Once you grow accustomed to carrying your life around with you, you are not going to want to let go of it.”
Dumain added that retailers who have seen the collection for spring have reacted by ordering a wider range of styles.
“They are no longer just sticking with one stockkeeping unit,” he said.
John Truex, co-creative director with Richard Lambertson of handbag brand Lambertson Truex, which showed its spring looks at a party held in the company’s showroom during fashion week, said the bigger bags on offer still have a lot of volume.
“They just don’t look as huge because they are designed to conform with the body,” Truex said.
Pointing to the many minaudières and clutches in exotic skins such as karung, crocodile and ostrich on display, he added: “Maybe it’s time for women to liberate themselves from all their stuff.”