PARIS — Neither the high value of the euro against the dollar nor weak consumer spending in Europe has dampened the optimism of the Salon International de la Lingerie, the lingerie trade show set to run at the Porte de Versailles exhibit halls here Jan. 28-31.
The show is banking on its creative approach, its nose for trends and its wide selection of brands to attract business. Some 550 exhibitors from about 30 countries are expected at SIL. More than 23,000 buyers visited the show last year.
“The show is becoming more multifaceted,” said Chantal Malingrey, SIL’s manager. “We want it to reflect the changes that are challenging and shaping the market.”
For instance, Malingrey said SIL will feature a wider variety of prices and segments. She said men’s underwear, a rapidly growing category for many retailers, will get larger play, as will less expensive, trendy lingerie geared to teens.
Perla Uomo, for example, will launch men’s underwear at the show, while a raft of new teen brands are joining the fair, including Mexx, Banana Moon and Chipie.
About 30 young designers will be featured in a section Malingrey said would be called “Starting Block.”
“Price is becoming more of an issue in lingerie,” continued Malingrey. “We need to have a wide variety of styles and prices at the show, because retailers need to have that variety in their stores.”
The show likewise is bulking up its offering of high-end, designer lingerie with the arrival of brands including Sonia Rykiel, Versace and John Richmond, all of which will launch their wares at SIL. A collection of Laura Biagiotti Bodywear that was previewed at the Lyon, Mode City fair in Lyon, France, in September, will also make an appearance at SIL.
The fair also hopes to further spotlight its creativity aspects with a collaboration this season with Swarovski. The crystal manufacturer has given its stones to a dozen or so fashion and lingerie designers, including Vivienne Westwood, Roberto Cavalli, Christian Lacroix , La Perla and Lise Charmel, and asked them to create prototype lingerie.
The one-of-a-kind pieces will be presented at SIL’s “Ultra Lingerie” catwalk show on the evening of Jan. 29.
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“The sky’s the limit,” said Lila Thibault, manager of Swarovski in France, regarding the collaborative effort. “The idea was to illustrate the weakening boundaries between fashion and lingerie and that lingerie can have a modern, fashion connotation. Women like to show off their lingerie today.”
“It’s SIL’s way of trying to push the limits of what lingerie can be,” added Malingrey.
Meanwhile, SIL will offer twice-daily runway shows illustrating the latest trends, and a daily catwalk show devoted to Italian firms, which make up the second most important contingent after France at the fair.
Malingrey said quality was high on SIL’s agenda, noting that the show had developed a so-called “ethical charter” to check the quality level of its exhibitors. The goal of this is to assure visitors that each brand featured at the fair can fill its promised orders, produce to high standards, and deliver its products in a timely manner, said Malingrey.
Also on the creative front, SIL has asked several artists to create lingerie-inspired works that will be exhibited in a special space during the show.
Meanwhile, trends featured in separate forums will be split into four themes: luxury, glamour, cocooning and young fashion. Malingrey said the idea behind the trend exhibition was to blend creativity with functionality.
SIL’s sister event, Interfiliere, a concurrent fabric, lace and trims show in January, will move into the same exhibit space at the Porte de Versailles, Hall 1. Helene Genter, Interfiliere show coordinator, said this was designed to create synergies between the two events.
“We want buyers to be able to visit both shows easily,” said Genter.
This collaborative spirit between the shows has also carried over to their first shared trend book, which was sent to exhibitors earlier this fall.
To facilitate buyers’ visits, the Interfiliere show will situate companies according to the types of products they manufacture. For example, all the lace manufacturers at the exhibit will be grouped in the same area.
The textile fair will feature about 230 exhibitors from 25 countries in January, said Genter. She added that eight new companies are joining the fair.
The level of creativity at SIL is spilling over to Interfiliere, as well. Genter said six textile designers have been asked to work on futuristic textiles that will be exhibited during the show. Trends will be illustrated with a straightforward exhibit of innovative textiles alongside a more esoteric forum that Genter said would serve as a think tank to stimulate buyers’ imaginations.
“The business environment is tough,” said Malingrey. “We need to give visitors all the tools they need to make the right decisions.”