It’s not a secret that some of the key fashion houses are in transition, but that didn’t deter designers in Milan from celebrating Italian craftsmanship in an array of sophisticated ways.
WWD chose some of the leading trends that resonated throughout the industry, from the return of the elegant ladylike and head-turning statement coats to furry textures and ‘70s brown shades.
Statement Coats
Head-turning coats including cape-like silhouettes, animal print styles and painterly designs added a touch of drama to the outerwear star.
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“Bold, statement outerwear, whether it’s a dramatic faux-fur trench from Gucci or a buttery leather red coat from Tod’s, was very much the anchor of many collections this season” stated Kate Benson, chief merchant at Harvey Nichols. Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, said that among the trends of the season there was “statement outerwear in a bevy of fabrications and textures.”
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Furry Textures
Designers in Milan took notice of Gen Z’s obsession with the ’80s fur look, with a range of furry textures ranging from long-hair shearlings to fur trimmings as embellishment.
“Shearling and faux furs, especially when used in dramatic proportions or applied as extreme detailing, took top billing,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president of women’s fashion and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman.
Knit Dressing
Building a knit wardrobe is one of the key messages of the season, providing an elegant and easy way to approach everyday dressing. Not to mention how cozy it is.
“Textural layering was key this season, with a strong emphasis on knitwear as outerwear, exemplified by Alberto Caliri’s debut at Missoni,” said Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew. “The expanded eveningwear offering, crafted from artisanal knits and intricate embroideries, was a standout, and we look forward to seeing its further development.”
The Return to Elegant Ladylike
The return of ladylike has been on the radar for a couple of seasons through the use of metallics, bows, feathers and a curiosity about corsetry. Designers are suggesting a very dressy lady.
“Dressed-up daywear continues to be the general approach to the season, and the Italian houses proudly embraced and modernized classic iconography,” commented April Hennig, chief merchant at Moda Operandi.
Scarves
Accessories were strong this season, especially scarves, stoles or hats proposed in bold tones and in different fabrics and materials.
“One of the biggest trends is covering your neck — whether that is via a funnel-neck coat, scarf coat or silk scarf,” said Marissa Galante Frank, beauty and accessories fashion director at Bloomingdale’s.
Brown Tones
Fall collections in Milan didn’t lack bold color blocks and vivid tones such as purple, red, yellow, pink among others. But earthy tones dominated the runways.
“Shades of brown — from soft latte hues to deep espresso — emerged as the strongest color story,” commented Simon Longland, director of buying, fashion at Harrods.