Season after season, fashion is becoming more of a collaborative effort.
Ready-to-wear designers are enlisting the help of accessories brands to add a little oomph to their shows. These collaborations are mutually beneficial — by showing on the runway, accessories brands are hoping to attract the right editorial and retail attention.
Jewelry brand Erickson Beamon began accessorizing for Anna Sui’s runway in 1991. Today, the company known for putting chokers back on the map is also featured each season in the Temperley and DKNY shows.
Co-founder Karen Erickson said she enjoys her biannual collaboration with Sui.
“She’ll either have a specific vision of what she wants or I’ll try to follow her inspiration,” said Erickson. “Sometimes it takes examining the fabrics; sometimes you need to mind read.”
However, for this season’s Temperley show, stylist Katie Mossman picked out black onyx cuffs and gold sphere-shaped rings that Erickson Beamon had already made.
“She walked in and said, ‘This is perfect. You’re working on what I want for Temperley,'” said Erickson.
No one at Marc Jacobs’ fall show could miss the hats featured in almost every look. Stephen Jones, in addition to creating three collections a year for his own label, designs custom hats for Christian Dior Haute Couture, Comme des Garçons and Marc Jacobs. He has worked with Jacobs on his last two collections and with Galliano for 16 years. His first partnership on the runway was with Jean Paul Gaultier in 1984. But Jones won’t work with just anyone.
“We have to be good friends first,” said the British milliner. “If I don’t know them, I won’t work with them. I have to meet with them, talk with them. I have to understand the aesthetic almost as much as they do.”
Fine jewelry designer Sasha Primak introduced a partnership this season with the cutting-edge label Threeasfour. In trying to modernize his 27-year-old brand, Primak aimed to get his fashion-forward collection on the runway.
“We wanted a nontraditional way of promoting our product, and fashion and jewelry go hand in hand,” said Primak.
Fashion consultant Robert Burke of Robert Burke Associates agreed that accessories placement on the runway was a great way for a brand to create buzz.
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“It’s a very intelligent partnership,” said Burke. “It’s great exposure for both brands. For a handbag or jewelry company, the runway gets them immediate attention they wouldn’t otherwise get. And it drives buyers into the showroom. The key is making the right collaboration.”
According to Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte, the right collaboration is their partnership with Van Cleef & Arpels. Kate Mulleavy said jewelry on the runway helped complete the look.
“It’s more about helping the customer view our clothing in the reality of everyday life,” she said.
Next up, New York-based Leiber will be teaming up with Julien Macdonald Tuesday night at London Fashion Week.