VICENZA, Italy – Fine jewelry manufacturers showing their collections at the Vicenzaoro trade fair last month continued to push creativity to stay ahead of the competition and heal an ailing market.
Italy registered a 17.9 percent drop in exports to the U.S. last year versus 2004. With a 20 percent export share, or $669.4 million, however, the U.S. remains the number-one market for Italian jewelry.
Rather than whittling costs, jewelers are stimulating consumer spending via superior craftsmanship and lots of rose gold, which was the fair’s novelty. It was shown in every variation: by itself, matched with white and yellow gold and in shiny and matte finishes.
Calgaro added black gold to its offerings, while Luca Carati dabbled with blue gold. Both are special rhodium treatments on white gold.
Feminine flourishes reverberated throughout the booths, with nature-driven shapes and sinuous motifs on display. While sapphires and fancy diamonds took a back seat, diamonds and colored stones such as aquamarines, topaz, smoky quartz and kogolong were popular.
Most vendors reported brisk holiday sales and expect double-digit increases for 2006.
“China shook us all very much because it was a new kind of competition,” said Leopoldo Poli, co-owner of La Nouvelle Bague. “It forced us to do better and be more innovative based on our history and culture.”
Most exhibitors still consider China too immature to become a new market for their wares, with the exception of Pianegonda, Antonini and Fope, which opened a branch office in Beijing in September targeted at potential customers with growing income.
“China is an increasingly rich market that appreciates the Made in Italy label. We wanted to check out the reaction,” said Valeria Verlato, Fope’s marketing manager.
Pianegonda just opened a store in Hong Kong and a second is slated for June in Beijing, following an outpost in Shanghai last April.
“China is fascinated by Italian products because, as much as our styles are copied, no one can imitate our brand values and lifestyle,” said Maria Luisa Pianegonda, marketing manager.
Pianegonda, which only presents its silver jewels at Vicenzaoro, said it tripled its U.S. business, which now accounts for 20 percent of sales.
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Antonini, whose business in North America and the Caribbean is thriving, pushed rose gold with its Alaska and Panama collections. Highlights were long earrings made with circular links filled with diamonds and finished with smoky quartz, amethyst or morganite.
Antonini is available in 50 North American doors, including Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Holt Renfrew. The firm has just signed an agreement with Harvey Nichols to sell in its Dubai store.
Luca Carati is another company with a U.S. presence, registering 20 to 30 percent sales increases in 2005.
Versatile pieces, like diamond earrings made with three detachable circles, were key trends for a casual look.
“We wanted pieces that transform, depending on whether you dress up or down,” said Federica Boido, vice president.
In response to pressure from counterfeiters, Calgaro decided to put its silver-spun pieces on the back seat and instead push a new collection of chains that was in the works for one year.
The collection comprises multiple chains with a circular clasp in different combinations of gold, including black gold. Styles sometimes feature diamonds.
Marco Valente, the owner of the namesake firm, said research, new materials and fresh styles were central to raising brand awareness and growing success.
Valente showcased an evolution of last year’s Marina chain. Called Namibia, the new version of the chunky links is a progression of ebony, gold, fossil ivory and leather, dotted with cabochon-cut tourmalines, sapphires and peridots.
Fope’s new collections are named after the owner’s daughters, Giulia and Lavinia. White gold, pearls and half moon-shaped diamonds dominate Giulia, while Lavinia spotlights rose gold for necklaces, bangles and cluster earrings with diamond-studded sliding clamps.
Annamaria Cammilli offered pretty florals, namely dainty calla and daisies in matte gold with colored diamonds in gradient pastel hues. The Florentine jeweler, which is now tackling the U.S. market, specializes in four gold colors: white, rose, lemon yellow and apricot yellow.
La Nouvelle Bague was inspired by India. It crafted bracelets from thick silk ropes in black, orange or white, and enriched with chiseled gold tubes, diamonds and enamel. The same ropes were used for lariat necklaces featuring a pair of sculptured boules dangling from the ends.
“It’s a very Imperial style, rich but refined,” said co-owner Poli.
Sparkling pavé is Leo Pizzo’s forte, this time served up in drop-shaped charms, hearts and flowers with white diamonds that give way to colored ones, as well as pink sapphires. Also on display was Elemento, a new men’s line made with burnished silver, white gold and rough diamonds.