PARIS — Following his triple crown at Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Accessories last October, Belgian designer Igor Dieryck will launch a capsule collection in collaboration with Paris department store Galeries Lafayette.
The five-piece capsule will encompass three ready-to-wear pieces and two accessories, all in cozy cable knit for the fall season.
The project was part of the top prize package last fall, when Dieryck snagged three prizes at the festival including the Première Vision grand prize awarded by the jury, as well as the Le19M Métiers d’Arts Prize in partnership with Chanel and the City of Hyères award.
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Now he’ll get a dedicated pop-up shop on the department store’s top floor to display the collection. Dieryck took inspiration from his winning collection and interpreted it in a softer way.
“It was important for me now to find a way to still communicate with my own codes, but then in a more commercial way. For me, the word commercial was never a bad thing,” he said. Inspiration stemmed from his winning Hyeres collection, which itself came from the codes of hotel staff and included pillbox hats and a yellow hood inspired by a feather duster.
He worked with volume and the high-waisted silhouette that featured in the winning collection, with key pieces a play on proportion, including a two-toned zip-up and a collared Henley ribbed and nipped at the waist. It recalls corsets from his collection, “but in a comfortable way, and you can wear it in your everyday life,” he said.
All is soft shades of gray with a subtle ID logo, the collection includes a convertible glove that can be worn short or to the elbow, and a hoodie-scarf hybrid that ticks the headwear box.
“I wanted to bring, of course, the sportiness that I have in my own work and the shapes to make it more modern,” he said. The helix of the cable knit adds a classic, studious twist.
The seasoned Galeries Lafayette team offered technical support as it was his first time doing knitwear outside of experimenting in an academic environment. The collection took about nine months from conception to debut.
The placement in Galeries Lafayette is “something huge for me,” the young designer said. “It was always for me this iconic place where you would have all these like crazy designers, from small ones to huge brands, and being able to have my pieces there is such a big step.”
He used the store’s iconic dome in a new way for the campaign, shot by Christopher Barraja. When exploring the dome as a possible site, the two were shown the space between the supporting scaffolding and the stained glass in passing, but the pair seized on the idea of shooting in the unusual location. It was the first time in the history of the store that the spot had been used for photos.
Dieryck added that collaborating on the campaign was a result of meeting in Hyères; Barraja was a finalist in the photography section of the festival.
Going forward, Dieryck will present his next runway show in October at the coming edition of the Hyères festival. Twelve to 15 looks are in the works.
Following that, he will take a hiatus from his own brand to concentrate on his work as a junior designer at Hermès.
“Nothing is planned [for the Igor Dieryck brand], and I’d rather take my time to do it in a good way, and to make sure that once something arrives on the market, that it’s also a good product, a good garment with a story and quality,” he said. “That’s something I really value.”
The capsule collection will launch in October just ahead of the next Hyères festival, which runs Oct. 12 to 15.