NEW YORK — Erica Davies and Sue Tsai want to take Development global.
The new creative directors behind the Los Angeles-based contemporary collection mark their debut with a spring 2006 offering filled with the label’s signature tailored pieces that have been infused with Davies’ London-inspired edginess and Tsai’s vintage femininity.
When Phillip Lim left Development last year to launch his collection, 3.1 Phillip Lim, David Cardona was brought on as creative director of the company, which had become pigeonholed as a “West Coast” label. The appointment of Cardona turned out to be a mismatch, and now, with Davies and Tsai at the helm, Development is ready to expand worldwide.
Davies, a native of Wales, has designed for Richard Tyler and Max Azria, not to mention her own dress line, Davies, which continues. Tsai, a Los Angeles native, designed the William B and Earl Jeans collections before becoming a fashion stylist for publications such as Italian Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Vanity Fair.
WWD talked with the duo about their plans for Development.
WWD: Prior to your arrival, what did you think Development was lacking?
Erica Davies: It needed more of a global feel. It was kind of celebrity, and I wanted to bring more of a holiday European feel.
Sue Tsai: It was a young, trendy, hip line, but I’d like to take it more sophisticated and make it timeless.
WWD: How is that achieved?
E.D.: We have to mix in contradictory fabrics. It’s got to be more “chic tomboy,” so we’ll mix charmeuse with chiffon and add a nailhead as detailing. It’s about mixing hard techniques with girly fabrics. For spring, we have a double-layer, two-tone dress with a hard belt and rivets. We have pintucked jersey dresses with quirky suede belts and very wide culottes. Even though they’re classics, there’s still a little twist.
The color combinations are also more wearable. We’re using teal, apricot, lime green, melon and dusty blues and grays. And a lot of sage. Before, it was always very bright. We’re trying to get away from that.
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WWD: What do each of you bring to the table?
E.D.: I have that hardness of London. It comes across by using odd proportions and color combinations, which I think we do very subtly. I’m harder and angular, while Sue is very feminine and quite vintage. It’s a good combination. You really get your East and your West Coasts.
WWD: Who do you see as the Development consumer?
S.T.: I think she’s a young woman who’s a little quirky and fashion-conscious. I think before the consumer was a bit younger, but now I think she’s more sophisticated. The collection could be a bit more career, not just for evening.
WWD: Where do you see the brand going?
E.D.: I think it’s about getting a more diverse customer, maybe a European consumer.
S.T.: I’d like to see us more international and expanding into accessories, shoes and eyewear — just more of a brand. If someone is interested in Development, it might be nice to have candles or a fragrance so they can have the scent of Development. They can be a part of it and become the essence of the brand.