NEW YORK — Denim, historically not one of the textile industry’s more environmentally friendly segments, is cleaning up its act.
Through improved, cleaner manufacturing techniques and new denim fabrics that are being marketed as pro-environment, denim makers say they are aiming to capture a market that’s become increasingly concerned about polluted landfills and dirty water.
And, because of that, they are investing millions into scrubbing up their industry.
Among the new products addressing the environment are fabrics with a stone-washed look created without the use of pumice stones, a denim made in part from recycled polyester, and fabrics made with Tencel, a man-made cellulosic fiber made by Courtaulds Fibers from wood pulp, using a solvent spinning technique that reduces effluence.
“Denim production, for years, has been a very dirty process,” said Dutch Leonard, president of Burlington Denim. “Washing and dyeing and finishing are not the cleanest systems. But I do think overall, the industry is trying to clean up its act, so to speak.”
From a product standpoint, stone-washing sans the stones is making the biggest noise. Burlington Denim and Avondale Mills — two of the leading denim makers — have both put products on the market.
Burlington, which calls its product Stone Free, spent about $500,000 in development, said Leonard. The proprietary process allows for indigo shades to break down 50 percent faster in the laundering cycle — without the use of pumice stones and reduced use of chemicals.
Stone Free is currently available in 14 3/4-ounce applications, although Leonard said Burlington is working to put it in different weights. Among the jeans companies using the fabric are Levi Strauss, Lee, Guess and The Gap.
Although the process adds about 10 to 15 percent to the price of the fabric, Leonard said apparel makers will still save money because more products can be made in a shorter time frame.
“We aren’t going to stop there,” Leonard said. “We need to become even more proactive in addressing environmental issues.”
Leonard said Burlington has even begun using paper made from recycled denim scraps for denim division stationery.
Another environmentally-oriented product at Burlington is its Tencel denim, a blend of cotton and Tencel.
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“Initially, we incorporated it into the line because of its fit and silhouette attributes,” Leonard said. “But because Tencel also is environmentally correct, so to speak, that’s also helping the denim industry get clean.”
So far, the action in Tencel denim has been outpaced by the promotion behind Stone Free.
“Given time, the use of Stone Free could develop into something pretty spectacular,” said Claude Blankiet, co-owner and vice president of American Garment Finishing, El Paso, Tex., a leading denim finisher and launderer, whose jobs have included washing of Stone Free garments.
He pointed out it is not a “miracle fabric.” But, he continued, “It has drastically cut the amount of effluence and sludge launderers are putting into the environment.”
Avondale is marketing its eco-friendly denim as its Ole Tymes collection, made without the use of stones. It’s also designed to reduce chlorine bleach usage up to 50 percent in achieving “market-right stonewash finishes,” said Keith Hull, president of Avondale. The manufacturer is currently selling the product to Lee, which has shipped merchandise for the back-to-school season.
“We have been working on the process for a couple of years, and I’d be kidding if I said we weren’t aware of Burlington’s efforts,” Hull said. “They are two different products, however.”
While Ole Tymes is currently available in the standard 14 3/4-ounce application, plans are in the works to unveil a 12 1/2-ounce Ole Tymes product.
Recycled polyester has until now made its biggest splash in activewear. But Swift Textiles, a major producer of denim fabric, has introduced a collection it calls Soda Pop Denim. The line of 14 3/4 ounce denim is made from 80 percent cotton and 20 percent recycled polyester, derived from plastic soda bottles, and is available in three colors — indigo, natural and black.
The fiber is being supplied by Martin Color-fi, a polyester producer in Edgefield, S.C.
The fabrics, which are being made at Swift’s Columbus, Ga. plant, will be ready for shipment beginning in October, with finished apparel products on retailer’s shelves by the beginning of 1995, said John Heldrich, president of Swift.
About two soda bottles go into one pair of jeans, according to Swift.
As part of an aggressive promotional campaign, Swift is planning to provide hangtags with environmental slogans, such as, “Landfill You Can Wear,” and “‘Wear a Bottle, Save a Planet.”
At retail, a pair of Soda Pop jeans will run about 20 percent higher than comparable 100 percent cotton jeans.
“Because of the concern over the environment, I don’t think the price will be that big of an issue, so long as we tell the story,” Heldrich said.
“Everyone is concerned about the environment, and this is just part of an overall plan to address that,” he added, noting the company has spent “millions of dollars in environmental moves.”
Indeed moves to clean up production are taking place throughout the industry. Cone Mills, for instance, continues to upgrade and modernize its dyeing and finishing equipment, and is even using recycled cones for its rolls of denim fabric. Over the past three years, Cone has spent about $40 million on upgrades.
“We are working on fabrics that address the environment, but it’s also important to put an effort into a plant,” said Pat Danahy, Cone’s president and chief executive officer. “By putting an emphasis on where the denim is made, we think we are being equally as responsible as our competitors.”
Danahy said it’s too early to tell when the new products will hit the market.
Another firm, Greenwood Mills, also has invested “substantial amounts” in new washing and dyeing machines, said Robert Kaplan, president of the company’s denim division.
“If we can make the processes much more efficient and clean, then the new products will come.” Kaplan said. “What I don’t want to do is promise something fantastic and either not be able to deliver, or, even worse, have it fail in the market.
“Like the rest of the industry, we are keeping our eyes open to new opportunities,” he said.