LONDON — Their vow from the start was no hair shirts — or hemp skirts. When the British Fashion Council decided to capture the fashion mood of the moment, and set up a space dedicated to “ethical fashion,” their priority was design over everything else.
This year they launched a new area called Estethica as part of The Exhibition @ London Fashion Week. Estethica is dedicated to fashion-forward, eco-friendly, fair-trade-focused or organic-minded designers.
“I’d love to see the day when we’re no longer divided into ethical and nonethical fashion,” said Orsola de Castro, designer of From Somewhere and one of Estethica’s curators.
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De Castro underscored that high fashion — rather than a high moral ground — is what will push ethical brands forward. “Of course, being ethical sets limits, but that encourages creativity.”
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Deborah Milner, the designer behind Ecoture, a London-based bespoke eveningwear brand backed by Estée Lauder-owned Aveda, is one of the labels taking part this season. “It was more important that my work is a fashion statement so it can provoke real change. That way we can show that sustainable can be beautiful,” Milner said. In partnership with the beauty brand, Milner concocted made-to-order gowns using environmentally friendly materials, natural dyes and fabrics sourced from indigenous communities. While she is currently focusing on made-to-measure outfits, Milner said she hopes to branch into ready-to-wear in the future.
Designer Katharine Hamnett is making her rtw comeback at the exhibition, showing her fledgling Katharine E Hamnett line, which uses 100 percent organic cotton, environmentally friendly dyes and fair-trade materials and is ethically manufactured. “I feel like Rumpelstiltskin,” quipped Hamnett, referring to the fairy-tale character who could spin straw into gold.
Hamnett’s line, which includes T-shirts retailing for 35 pounds, or $66, trousers for 90 pounds, or $169, and dresses starting at 150 pounds, or $282, will be sold online and in stores. T-shirts from the line are already available at Fred Segal, Selfridges and Urban Outfitters. Hamnett’s plans also include a jewelry collection featuring conflict-free diamonds and an accessibly priced ethical apparel collection in collaboration with supermarket chain Tesco for spring-summer 2007. With so many projects in the works, Hamnett said she’s optimistic about the future of ethical fashion. “I believe in the common sense of the common man,” she said.
From Somewhere’s de Castro is also upbeat about the sector. The designer plans to open a stand-alone store to showcase her brand in Notting Hill by spring of next year. The line, which includes dresses wholesaling at about 80 pounds, or $152, uses end-of-line fabrics and remnants from other design houses’ cutting room floors to create funky, wearable designs. “Everyone recycles,” she said. “It doesn’t make you a hippie.”