NEW YORK — For spring-summer 1995, structured looks will be the important new trend.
At the same time, deepened hues will be moving onto the palette that has been dominated by neutrals.
That’s the word from Jim Siewert, manager of trend direction of Hoechst Celanese, who made those predictions at the company’s latest fabric, color and silhouette trend shows. Entitled “Spring-Summer 1995 Directives,” the 25 presentations drew more than 800 apparel designers, manufacturers, converters and retailers at Hoechst Celanese offices here.
The shows later moved to the Los Angeles Mart, where 170 viewed them.
Zeroing in on fibers made by Hoechst Celanese, Siewert said the key fabrics include crepe, lustrous satins and silk-like fabrics in 100 percent polyester, 100 percent acetate and in blends with these fibers.
“There’s an acetate and rayon petit twill weave with a beautiful lustrous hand that can work in softly tailored separates with a structured look,” he said. “Another is a modified rib-knit in Celebrate acetate that has drapy hand and a lustrous finish, which is important for contemporary sportswear separates.”
He said the beginning color story is the continuation of neutral colors, both warm and cool. Putty, a warm shade, and alabaster — a cool — are representative of this range.
Two other groups feature neutrals in pastel tints or frost tints.
Siewert cited almond, robin’s egg blue and heliotrope as leading pastels.
In the frost group, tourmaline, which is a very pale celadon, orchid and peanut — a very yellowed warm beige — are the leading slightly deeper neutrals. Finally, there are the rich darks meant for lightweight fabrics. They include chocolate brown, garnet, blood stone red and lapis blue, which Siewert described as “the new navy.”
“These are for career dressing,” Siewert noted,” and mixing them with white gives them the new spectator sportswear look.”
The spring forecast was divided into five groups. They are:
Shadow Play, the continuation of a quiet feminine mood using diffused patterns. They include florals of many types and references to neoclassic and Grecian designs.
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Reel Life, a throw-back to the glamorous era of Hollywood in the Forties, uses rich colors and patterns that take on geometrics and soft linear forms. Among them are stylized florals and slightly larger repeat geometrics.
Anglo Raj and Indo Chic come from a related theme, but are split into two groups. The Anglo Raj reflects a soft, neutral color story in small, neat patterns for career-type dressing, including softly tailored sportswear. Indo Chic means bolder colors and ethnic-influence prints, like ikat and batik, and Madras plaids, both woven and printed, in a group that is geared for weekend wear.
Retro Modern focuses on bright colors combined with white. The overall effect is a Fifties modern look with naive patterns and artistic references like Miro and Caldor-inspired abstract prints. The look is important for sportswear and dresses in a spectator mood.