LONDON — Graeme Black is moving his eponymous label to London, where he plans to stage a runway show in February and open his first stand-alone store next year.
As reported, Black’s last season as head women’s wear designer at Ferragamo will be spring 2008. In October, he’ll bid goodbye to Italy, and move his company headquarters to London’s Chelsea.
“I am so excited to focus on my own line, and I can’t wait to get back to London,” said Black. “I love the way women dress here. London is buzzing right now — it’s just a great place to be.”
Black, a Scotsman, launched his label for fall 2005 with business partner Jonathan Reed, who is managing director of the company. Reed, who has worked for Polo Ralph Lauren and Hackett, is now head of Studio Reed, a London-based architectural and interior design firm.
Black’s label sells at 29 stores worldwide, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Harvey Nichols, Browns and Net-a-porter.com. Private clients include Queen Rania of Jordan and Elle Macpherson. About one-third of Black’s business comes from the U.S., with the remainder coming from Europe, Russia, the Middle East and Far East. The company is expecting sales of approximately $6 million in 2008, and plans to add 16 wholesale accounts for spring.
Black launched his first pre-collection for spring. He will move his design studio and sales offices to a space just off the King’s Road. His production office, however, will be in Florence. His collection is made entirely in Italy, although Black said he’ll likely start working with Scottish cashmere and fabrics now that he’s based in the U.K. Black will continue to sell out of his Milan showroom on via Castelfidardo, in Brera.
With regard to the first stand-alone store, Black and Reed are looking for space on London’s Pimlico Road, which is lined with furniture and antique shops and posh restaurants. The store, Black said, will offer furniture and objects in addition to his collections. “I think the days of the store as ‘white box’ are over. We want to create an atmosphere around the clothing, and show our customers the inspirations for a particular season,” he said.
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At the beginning of his career in the early Nineties, Black worked in London for John Galliano and Zandra Rhodes. He later moved to Italy, and worked for Giorgio Armani, designing the Borgonuovo collection. He joined Ferragamo in 2001, and launched his own collection in 2005.