NEW YORK — When it comes to beauty products, is all-natural or high-tech the ideal?
That was the question pondered by five beauty industry executives at a Fashion Group International luncheon called “Beauty’s New Balance, Science-Nature,” held at the New York Hilton Thursday.
The short answer is a combination of both, panelists agreed.
“I’m of two minds,” said panelist Howard Kreitzman, vice president and divisional merchandise manager of cosmetics and fragrances for Bloomingdale’s. “I don’t think there’s one answer.”
The panel also included Joseph Gubernick, chief marketing officer for the Estée Lauder Cos; Lauren Thaman, global director of beauty science at Procter & Gamble; Stéphane Wilmet, general manager, L’Oréal’s SkinCeuticals brand, and Betsy Schmalz, executive vice president of creative and technological innovation for Limited Brands’ Beauty Avenues division.
Panelists indicated that a hybrid of science and nature in product development could be the ideal.
“It’s [about] yin and yang and everything balances out,” said Gubernick. “Yin is organic and appeals more to women; it’s [about] taking care of the world, family and children.” The yang, he said, represents men. “Men are more attracted to high-tech.”
Perhaps most important in all this, however, is the role of Baby Boomers. Kreitzman remarked, “Every seven seconds, someone turns 50 [years old]. To me, that’s what’s driving a lot of what’s going on [today]. Fifty is the new 30, [and] when you throw in high-tech, it becomes a big business. We’re embracing technology in a way we never have before.
“I see [science and nature] moving forward on parallel tracks,” he said, adding he sees a brand like StriVectin on the high-tech end and a Kiehl’s or Origins on the all-natural end. “Both are good,” Kreitzman added, but “does the consumer believe it will work?”
The panelists agreed consumers are confused about the meaning of “natural,” a word often found in beauty advertising and marketing materials. Things can get even more complicated when the term “organic” is used, executives contended.
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Thaman pointed out the term organic refers to an agricultural growing method and that natural indicates from where an ingredient is derived.
“There are a lot of cheaters out there calling products organic that are not organic,” said Gubernick, who was one of the founders of Lauder’s Origins brand.
“I don’t like the word. I don’t like its use.” Nevertheless, he acknowledged, consumers identify with these terms and perceive them as selling points.
Carol A. Smith, senior vice president and publishing director of Elle Group, moderated the event, which was sponsored by Elle Group, Lauder and International Flavors & Fragrances.
— Matthew W. Evans