LOS ANGELES — Chemin de Fer, which had its heyday in the Seventies with lace-up, wide-leg jeans and colorfully threaded hip-huggers, is trying to chug its way back into the apparel limelight.
Taking a cue from other blasts from the past, such as Sergio Valente and Jordache’s premium line, Los Angeles-based Chemin de Fer, which means “railroad” in French, is being resurrected by three investors who are targeting the line as a product that is more about fitting a mother of two than her seventh grader.
Richard Fink, chief executive officer of hosiery maker Pacific Knitting Mills; Jim Lorber, a former sales representative with textile firm Lorber Industries, and Claire Speed, a freelance designer who has worked with Chorus Line sportswear and L’Koral Industries, have secured ownership of the Chemin de Fer trademark after six years of trying.
“It took awhile, but we believe in the power of the choo-choo,” Fink said. “The timing is right and the customer is looking for a product that’s not about ripped and torn jeans, but one that suits the grown-up contemporary woman.”
Brothers-in-law David Goan and Spencer Stillman launched the juniors’ company about 30 years ago offering iconic silhouettes. Their partnership ended in a series of disagreements leading to the closing of the firm in 1985 when it had an annual volume of $25 million.
The new Chemin de Fer, which has competitors such as David Kahn, plans to offer bottoms in ring denim, corduroy and broken twill in a rise of 9.5 inches with subtle washes. Offered in lighter weights ranging from 10 to 12 oz., the denim styles consist of five-pocket jeans, above-the knee skirts, belted jackets, longer zip jackets and high-low hemmed jackets with frayed extra-wide collars.
Some of the key looks include a indigo wash denim given a so-called rain effect, lighter jeans featuring high-front flap pockets and rear welt pockets and doubled-sided corduroy, pigment-coated in washed-out colors such as mauve and turquoise. Embroidery detail is part of the rear pockets, as is the company’s original signature — the triangular-shaped leather patch imprinted with the red train — but don’t expect to see more effects in the vein of today’s highly embroidered trend.
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“We’re not in a back-pocket business,” Fink said. “It’s about fit and feel.”
Also generating interest during the line’s soft launch at the contemporary market in Los Angeles last month was Chemin by Chemin de Fer seamless tops. Created with the help of an Italian circular knitting machine used for socks and hosiery, the garment-dyed knit tanks, camis and shirts made of sheer modals and cotton blends as well as merino wool and silk-cashmere combinations boast no side seams. The machines also can produce product with scalloped edges, wraparound patterns and laser cuts knitted right in the finished garment to avoid fraying.
Along with apparel, the line also offers kids’ clothing, belts made of brass mesh, metalwork jewelry such as earrings sprayed for iridescence and socks and legwarmers. The line will add a handbag group by June and a men’s line by next year.
Fink said first-year sales could reach $3 million for the line, which wholesales from $14 to $24 for the tops and $55 to $75 for the jeans.
The new owners of the trademark say they’re comfortable with their apparel wager.
“We don’t really know what the reaction could be,” Fink said. “Who knows? It could reach $10 million by the next year.”
Nostalgia won over retailer Shauna Stein, co-owner of the high-end boutique On Sunset in West Hollywood, Calif., who placed an order for the line.
“It’s a name that generates fondness,” Stein said. “It looked good on the butt and fit well and I loved the washes. And, I like the fact they’re open to suggestion. I need a brown jean for fall and they’re willing to look into it