NEW YORK — Lingerie executives are preparing for what is being described by a number of vendors as a monster market in terms of size and scope.
Along with March, the August session typically is one of the largest venues for spring-summer selling, but this year’s edition is expected to receive a larger turnout of retailers mainly because of the quest for newness and fresh-looking product. Retail consolidation and the potential changes at major stores is resulting in retailers increasingly demanding exclusives and new brands to differentiate themselves from the competition.
It is also an unpredictable time for scores of vendors who hope to continue selling multiple channels of distribution in the prelude to the merger between Federated Department Stores Inc. and May Department Stores Co., which is expected to close this fall. The big question on vendors’ minds is how the restructuring will affect the buying and merchandising responsibilities of May and Federated divisionals and buyers.
Also making an impact on the traditional market week is the Lingerie Americas trade show (see related story, page 14), which is in its third year and is the only trade show in town. A majority of manufacturing firms, such as Natori Co., The Hochman Design Group and NAP Inc., that have Madison Avenue showrooms are also displaying the lion’s share of their branded collections of sleepwear, robes and lingerie at the trade fair.
Vendors generally said they are showing at both venues because time is of the essence for retailers to cover the market in a comprehensive manner. However, that doesn’t mean there are more companies to cover — it means there are a growing number of new brands and collections to evaluate.
Three events will lend excitement to the week’s activities, including a fashion show for the media of Vera Wang Intimates Aug. 4 at the National Academy of Design here at Fifth Avenue and 90th Street, and a cocktail party Aug. 3 at the new Natori Co. offices and showrooms at 180 Madison Avenue. Denton, Tex-based Russell-Newman will host a cocktail party August 2 for the opening of their new offices and showrooms at 6 West 32nd Street. The company’s portfolio of brands include Cypress and three licensees _ Laura Ashley, Tommy Hilfiger and Jockey.
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Meanwhile, vendors expect top-selling looks for spring-summer will include:
- Camis and baby dolls with built-in bra cups.
- Any kind of embellishment such as sequins, pearls, rhinestones, ribbons, lace and bows.
- Bright, clear colors including yellow, green, coral, blue and pink.
- The ingenue-looking chemise in sheer chiffon and georgette.
- Soft, lightweight blends of cotton and Modal or cotton and Tactel Lycra that have a ready-to-wear look.
Sizing up the mood of the market, Richard Leeds, chairman of Richard Leeds International, said: “There’s a continuing change in the retail landscape, and how trends and fashion are being interpreted. There’s a customer and a retailer searching for what’s new, what’s next, and it’s not just a different silhouette, but the fabrication and styling.
“There are a lot of retailers right now that have very sophisticated product development departments. Yet, with all of their inventory, they have to support their markdowns and private label programs. I don’t think they are as successful as they would like to be, and they are coming back to the market for help for what’s new,” said Leeds.
Regarding retail consolidation, Leeds said the manufacturer-merchant relationship has become a “very hard dance.”
“Manufacturers are trying to hold on to their accounts, and they are trying to bring out the newness. But you don’t know if the retailer is coming in to be inspired for their private label programs, or actually coming in to find newness and brands,” he said.
Marc Seldin, chief executive officer of St. Louis-based Miss Elaine, observed, “This is going to be such a monstrous market because it could well be the last market May buys independently. I don’t know who the main manufacturing players will be in the future, but Federated will probably drop all of May’s private label people. I think Federated wants to get going on this ASAP. But it won’t come out in the wash until March.”
“The big question will be, how much will go to private label and how much will be left for brands?” said Seldin.
Josie Natori, ceo of the Natori Co., said she believes consolidation at retail will make manufacturers more creative in developing new ideas.
“I think competition is always a healthy thing,” said Natori. “And we look forward to an outstanding market.”
Discussing new product, Barbara Lipton, vice president and divisional merchandise manager of fashion brands at The Warnaco Group, said, “The big story for JLo Lingerie by Jennifer Lopez is a new collection called In the Spotlight. This technologically advanced lighter-than-air bra provides all the shaping a woman needs without all of the weight of a foam bra.”
Martha Olson, president of Warnaco’s core brands business, noted, “Since the introduction of Warner’s Satin Tuxedo in September 2004, Warner’s has been on a roll. We are outpacing the department trends and have really turned business around. For August, we’ll expand our successful Be Flirty panty collection to create a complete lifestyle assortment including three new bras and a fashion camisole.”
Anne DiGiovanna, vice president of marketing at Warnaco, said the company will support new initiatives shown at the August market with “strong marketing campaigns including powerful in-store messaging and national advertising.”
Victor Lee, president of NAP Inc., said the company will be making a “luxe statement” with an Italian lingerie and swimwear brand called Bacirubati, which means “stolen kisses” in Italian. The company will exclusively market and distribute the brand in the U.S. NAP, which owns the Anne Lewin name, also has joint ventures with the Argentovivo, Derek Rose and Princesse Tam Tam brands, as well as the licensed Crabtree & Evelyn name.
“We don’t want to cannibalize our existing luxury business, and Bacirubati fits in between the Argentovivo and Princesse Tam Tam price points,” said Lee. “We think the new collection for spring and summer is fresh, naughty and romantic looking. We will be showing the collection in New York, as well as at our showrooms in Atlanta, Dallas and Los Angeles.” Wholesale prices have not been determined, but Lee said bras should wholesale between $60 and $90.
Seth Morris, president of The Hochman Design Group, predicted a new entry, Esprit Collection Bodywear, will “add a lot of excitement” to the marketplace.
“We think there’s a niche in the U.S. market for the Esprit collection. The target is the modern, self-confident woman in the 25-to-40 age range. When we previewed the collection, retailers said they were pleased with the quality, needle and detailing of the product,” said Morris. Bra sizes will be 34A to 38DD.
Morris added the company’s focus on newness and new fabrications expands to several licensees including Oscar de la Renta sleepwear and Betsey Johnson Intimates, as well as the Carole Hochman brand.
Mark Sandler, senior vice president of O’Bryan Brothers Inc., said a new classification will be launched by its trademark Cuddl Duds brand: a panty program rendered in Comfortech, a proprietary microfiber blend that has wicking qualities.
“We tested the idea last year with men’s underwear and it was very successful,” said Sandler. “We began testing kids’ underwear with Comfortech this year, and distribution for the women’s line will be the same 2,000 department store doors the men’s and kids’ lines are distributed to,” said Sandler.
“This will be an extremely big market for us, mainly because we’ve had a great spring at retail,” said Michelle Clark, vice president of merchandising at Movie Star Inc. “We are feeling very upbeat because of that, and our roster is pretty full.”
Clark said the top-selling classification is “anything padded.”
“Eighty percent of what retailers are selling has had a padded cup in it. We are doing built-in bra camis for Susan Lucci Intimates on Home Shopping Network, and they are already sold out,” said Clark.
Camille Block, senior vice president of merchandising and design at Gelmart Industries Inc., said two lines have been expanded for summer-spring selling: basic styles in average-size and full-figure bras by Gelmart Essentials, and a “tightly edited” group of full-figure fashion bras and coordinating panties by Body Naturals.
“We’re also very upbeat about a new maternity group of foundations,” said Block, noting that the line will be aimed at private label programs.