VICENZA, Italy — To tickle consumers’ urge to splurge, fight counterfeiters and battle the threat of low labor-cost jewelry coming from China and Turkey, Italian fine jewelry producers showing their new collections at the recent Vicenzaoro trade fair raised the bar in design, craftsmanship and innovation.
Driven by a quest to make special pieces, jewelers turned to flora and fauna for inspiration or served up versatile pieces such as stackable rings or attachable mesh necklaces and bracelets.
Just as in fashion, color continues to be the key trend, with a proliferation of semiprecious stones in a garden of pinks, light greens, intense yellows and muted blues.
“Unlike diamonds, consumers don’t perceive colored stones as an investment but as a whimsical accessory,” said Nicoletta Cravedi, product manager at Pasquale Bruni.
In tune with the colorfully sparkling booths, most company executives depicted a rosy forecast for 2005 business.
“I noticed a newfound joie de vivre here and a desire for happiness that makes people willing to spend for a special jewel, something that stands out,” said Leopoldo Poli, co-owner of La Nouvelle Bague.
The strong euro-dollar exchange rate has dampened U.S. exports, however.
“I had to be on a really tight budget, which I hate,” said Lauren Kulchinsky, co-vice president of Mayfair Jewelers, the Latham, N.Y.-based store.
Kulchinsky said she did make several purchases from vendors such as Calgaro, Antonini and Orlando Orlandini, but was not able to spend as much as she would have liked because of the weak dollar.
Some American retailers decided not to even make their trip to Vicenza because of the euro-dollar conundrum.
“I canceled my trip to Basel, too,” said Jim Rosenheim, owner of Tiny Jewel Box in Washington, D.C., referring to the fine jewelry fair held in the Swiss city in March.
Rosenheim said the weakness of the dollar and rising gold prices forced him to rethink his trips.
“Right now is my research and development time,” he said. “I’m looking more to the domestic and Asian markets.”
Exhibitors claimed they absorbed price increases by compressing their margins, a strategy they feel will pay back in the long run. Counterbalancing the weaker U.S. market is Russia, a fast-growing area for many jewelers, which are creating special pieces for consumers who like attention-grabbing items.
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Calgaro, the three-year-old company that prides itself on innovation, introduced a pashmina scarf spun from a blend of 92 percent silver yarn and silk in eight shades plus a pinstripe version. In the works is a similar version with diamonds and precious stones that will bow at Basel and is primarily targeted at Russian women.
Calgaro’s sales rose 70 percent in 2004 and worldwide accounts jumped from 200 in 2003 to the current 650, with 70 new sales points in the U.S.
Pasquale Bruni featured six macro rings with cabochon cut or faceted amethysts and aquamarines that weigh an average of 58 carats. They are cradled in white or yellow gold settings with frayed edges.
“We made them especially for our Russian clients,” Cravedi said.
Chinese competition still hasn’t resulted in sleepless nights for Italian jewelers even though they are aware of the potential threat. Many cited the Italians’ penchant for design, good taste, a historical background and sense of color as distinguishing traits.
“China and Turkey are more problematic for the unbranded companies, but if you invent something new, if you invest in artisans and offer good service and quality, then you’re less threatened,” said Franco Pianegonda, whose company’s sales climbed 20 percent in 2004, totaling $33 million at current exchange rates. “Obviously, in 10 years it may be a different story.”
Cravedi said, “It’s unbranded jewelry that will suffer from China’s low-cost competition. Our jewelry is still entirely handmade and design-oriented, with every small detail handled in a very special way.”
At La Nouvelle Bague, the rose was the main theme of the new collection, daintily traced out like a spiderweb to form rigid bracelets, rings, pendants, chokers and earrings in white gold, enamel and diamonds.
“It’s our job to make research complex by using simple elements, as in the case of our rose pieces, because no one wants a simple daisy,” Poli said.
Roberto Coin celebrated his optimism through a series of fun pieces for the sweet-toothed and champagne lovers. Inspired by the film “Chocolat,” Coin served up a bitten chocolate bar pendant in white or yellow gold. The most elaborate versions have sprinklings of diamonds or yellow sapphires, while the heart-shaped chocolate pendant is the perfect Valentine’s Day gift, evidenced by the 500 pieces purchased by one jewelry store.
“I wanted to transmit an emotion, to stimulate the consumer because I expect 2005 to be a positive year,” Coin said.
Other funky ideas included pendants shaped as miniature flutes and champagne bottles, some covered with diamonds, and Lilliputian gold spoons dotted with black diamonds resembling caviar eggs. Other Calgaro pieces included beefy hand-knitted bracelets where an injection of 15 percent carbon fiber gives the colors a special sheen and elasticity.
Fope introduced Y by Fope, a colorful younger line priced between $240 and $400 retail that is more about dash than cash. It includes a barrage of gold-plated silver chandelier earrings, multistrand necklaces and bracelets embellished with a rainbow of Swarovski crystals and coral and turquoise paste.
“Last year turned out to be less bad than we expected, and I feel that people will spend for an interesting piece and this leads us to push the envelope,” said Valeria Verlato, marketing manager.
Pianegonda stayed true to its “big is beautiful” formula. A silver bangle gleamed with five princess-cut amethysts totaling 75 carats, while its matching rings boasted a 45.7 carat purple rock.
A patchwork of colored stones and smoky quartz were key in the bold and modern Diva collection. Customers seeking a punk-meets-rocker edge can opt for the layered chains that tumble down the front in bib style. Some are enriched with the company’s signature heart and key charms.
“These are jewels for ladies that already wear Chanel and Louis Vuitton [clothing and accessories] and that wanted colored stones or long chains that wrap around,” said Pianegonda.
Alaska, an evolution of previous collections, highlighted Antonini’s new line based on the circle. Designer Carlo Antonini assembled different sized circles to form drop or bottom earrings, pendants, bangles, chokers and rings that are fluid and sinuous. Depending on the stones employed — from all-diamond versions to citrines set on yellow gold — the resulting look varied from cocktail gala to Sunday brunch.
“Antonini had a very strong collection,” said Kulchinsky of Mayfair. “He went back to what he does best, which is classic geometric shapes.”
With its Avantgarde collection, Pasquale Bruni culled from its history of color. Rather than mixing different stones, the designer featured earrings, rings and pendants with cabochon citrines and lemon quartz set on white gold or amethysts partnered with rose gold. Regardless of the combination, the added value is a tiny diamonds shaped heart surrounded by the firm’s logo tucked under the stone.
“The line was very well received because it’s simple but with character,” Cravedi added.