The two-week market literally was a work in progress.
There was a laid-back ambience to the first half of the week because of the absence of the Lingerie Americas fair and the elimination of the frenetic pace generated by the specialty boutique buyers who typically attend the trade show. Despite the lull at Madison Avenue showrooms, a majority of major retailers showed up, including Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and, of course, Federated Department Stores.
The second week, which ended Friday, reflected a similar atmosphere of quiet discussions behind closed doors with other powerhouse retailers such as J.C. Penney, Dillard’s Department Stores and Kohl’s, all of which were on the hunt for special product, value deals and key items.
In addition to completing spring-summer buys as well as back-to-school programs, a key topic of discussion was the Salon International de la Lingerie trade fair in Paris scheduled for Feb. 2 to 5. The main complaint among exhibitors, industry executives and retailers was the conflict caused by the Feb. 5 to 9 innerwear market in Manhattan, which kicks off on the final show day in Paris. Industry executives will have to take red-eye flights to also exhibit, or visit the Lingerie Americas trade fair here slated for Feb. 7 to 9.
Adding to the frenzy is the prospect of packing up again to participate in the first Curvexpo lingerie trade show in Las Vegas that is being organized by former Lingerie Americas show managers Jean-Luc and Laurence Teinturier. The new fair is set for Feb. 13 to 15 at the Venetian Hotel Resort.
“It’s going to be tough for a lot of people,” said Steve Chernoff, chief executive officer of Long Island City, N.Y.-based Rago Inc. “The issue of [lingerie] trade shows is quickly becoming a global issue with other shows like Lyon, Mode City in France and Shanghai Mode Lingerie in Shanghai.” A third Shanghai Mode Lingerie fair staged by Eurovet, which operates the French SIL and Lyon fairs, is being scheduled for October, as well as the launch of the Hong Kong Mode Lingerie show in late March, said Eurovet officials.
Chernoff, who also serves as vice chairman of the Intimate Apparel Council, which sets the annual market dates, further noted, “All of the U.S. market dates should be revisited to see how they work in context with other shows outside and inside the U.S. It would make it a lot easier for the industry.”
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The flurry of trade-show activity and the bustle of the official fall 2007 market is causing a range of responses among vendors, from anger and concern among smaller and midsize companies that do not have substantial financial resources to a laissez-faire attitude at Fortune 500 companies and major independents that have deep pockets.
But, large or small, a common denominator is being shared among industry executives: A majority of vendors, some of whom exhibit at SIL, are privately complaining that the timing of the combined shows and market will force them to make additional samples, hire extra help and work a grueling three-week schedule. Ironically, the first official market week in February in New York was created to consolidate the former January and March editions into one venue, a move that was expected to facilitate travel and buying patterns as well as ease budgets for retailers.
However, the inconvenience factor is generally overshadowing a positive outlook in a global arena that is large enough for a number of competitors.
“The only way we can swing this is to show at my apartment in Paris so we can get back to New York on time,” said Josie Natori, ceo of the Natori Co., an exhibitor at SIL. “We would never have time to set up at SIL and make all of our appointments. So, retailers will come to us, and we can pack up and leave quickly.”
“It’s really going to be difficult for a lot of companies,” said one manufacturer from a midsize company who did not want to be identified. “Budgets are already tight enough at smaller companies without having to put up with the decisions of a few who put their personal interests above others in the industry. A lot of that decision-making was based on Federated’s schedule, and key suppliers were willing to accommodate them.”
Regarding any changes in the way business will be conducted at the February market, Martha Olson, president of core brands at the Warnaco Group, said January used to be known for its discussions of markdown money.
“It will be interesting to see what will happen in February,” said Olson. “It will probably be the same thing.”
Meanwhile, vendors were targeting several classifications at this month’s two-week session:
- Baby dolls in sheer, tiered layers or solid silk and polyester charmeuse at Flora Nikrooz. Many looks feature updated, bohemian looks and colors at French Jenny.
- A variety of mix-and-match pajama pants, whether puckered and ruched at the ankle, bloomer-style boxers, ready-to-wear-inspired gauchos or Bermuda lengths at Hue. The silhouettes are predominant in three new lines: Hue to Go, a dual-purpose loungewear line; Hue d’Luxe, an upscale line of key items that can be worn in or out of the home, and Eco Crush, an homage to Earth-friendly graphics and motifs that are not necessarily organic products. The central figure: Earth Girl carrying Mother Earth.
- Luxury fabrications such as pima cotton at Eileen West and proprietary blends such as washed silk and cashmere by Rich at Richard Leeds International.
- A focus on more young contemporary lingerie items in two-by-two heather ribs and butter-soft Modal blends for department store distribution, including XOXO sleepwear at the Cayre Group.
However, one classification in particular was a priority for a number of manufacturers because of popular demand by retailers: anything organic.
The message of well-being, whether it’s organic cotton or soft-spun fabrics derived from bamboo or soybeans that have a lightweight, silk-like hand, are beginning to fill the marketplace. The demand for environmentally correct products, whether sleepwear, undies, apparel or food and beverages, is being propelled by the success of wellness programs at Wal-Mart, Target and scores of specialty stores that are addressing the lifestyle demands of consumers who want Earth-friendly products.
Addressing the hunger for organic products, Richard Leeds, chairman of his own firm, said: “Sell-throughs on our organic Mutts line of sleepwear at Wal-Mart have been very strong. We sold out in less than seven weeks at Wal-Mart and less than one week on the Mutts Web site. Wal-Mart plans to expand organic products in a big way.” He added that the number-one-selling organic item by Mutts at Wal-Mart is a top that says, “Saving One Kitty at a Time.”
Flora Nikrooz has added an organic brand to her portfolio of feminine bridal and special occasion fare called 2 Life, Earth Friendly Clothing. The daywear and sleepwear of soft, pliable soybean protein fiber features lifestyle items including a variety of tops — tanks, hooded tops, lounge tops — and racer-back chemises and undies. Colors are pale pink, taupe, ivory and aqua. The tag line for marketing and advertising is “Dream in Green.”
“It’s received really good reaction and will be launched at Macy’s East,” said Nikrooz.