PARIS — Jean Colonna is back.
The French designer, who rose to prominence in the Nineties with his then-frowned-upon notion of providing affordable fashion, has relaunched his signature label and set up his first boutique in Paris this week.
The 400-square-foot unit, a former gallery, is located at 22 rue Debelleyme, smack in the epicenter of the French capital’s buzzy Marais district. Designed by French architect Patrick Bouchain, the store boasts a minimalist flair with detachable racks and mirrors cladding the walls.
Every 10 days, the clothes, which are done in a subdued palette of mostly nude, black and khaki, are slated to change, proposing varied takes on the designer’s signature pieces, which include 100 percent cashmere tank tops done by Nepalese artisans, as well as lightweight ponchos and faux-fur coats.
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Despite their apparent fragility, the knitwear pieces are all machine washable. The line is set in a price range between 200 euros, or $258, for a cashmere tank and 630 euros, or $814, for a nylon and wool coat, staying true to the brand’s original philosophy of offering quality at a fair price.
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The designer, who counts 30 points of sale, including Mameg in L.A. and Takashimaya in Tokyo, said he has no plans of returning to the runway. “The only advantage of the runway is that it pushes you creatively, but I’m currently in my phase of lazy creativity,” he said.
No need to reinvent the wheel. Cue a pair of languid pants, which made their debut on the runway in 1990 and have found their way back into this season’s collection. “They still feel contemporary today. I have always been more interested in producing a wardrobe rather than fashion, and the notion of timelessness is part of it. That’s real luxury to me,” he explained.
Colonna had taken “a break” from designing in 2003, working on other projects, mostly as a consultant or artistic director. “I just wasn’t happy anymore, and working for others was genius, very liberating,” he declared.