The Contour Fashion B.A. at De Montfort University in Leicester, in England’s Midlands area, claims to offer the only course in the world leading to an undergraduate degree in contour fashion. In fact, the school has a history in the evolution of Britain’s lingerie industry, which originated in the region. The course was set up in 1947 by what its current instructor, Gillian Proctor, calls “the movers and shakers” in the industry to train future corset designers and technicians. Now, the class turns out students with goals to start their own avant-garde labels or to work for a major innerwear brand. “Pretty much every lingerie label in the world will have had at some point a De Montfort University graduate, or several, on the team,” said Proctor. “We work very hard to maintain our reputation.” Here, Proctor discusses the intricacies and rigors of the 64-year-old course.
Related Articles
WWD: What qualities do you look for in prospective students?
Gillian Proctor: Foremost, we’re looking for students who are passionate about the subject. We find that most of the students who apply have a genuine interest from a historical point of view. We have students who have collected corsets for years and often because they have issues themselves in trying to find intimate apparel. We [also] look for students who can draw. Drawing is very important, because it’s the preliminary to any design. We’re looking for students who have a good eye for color, for fabric and who have a really good understanding of contemporary catwalk fashion — because intimate apparel, fabulous industry that it is, is driven by what happens from the outerwear silhouette.
You May Also Like
WWD: What makes the course so special?
G.P.: I think what sets us apart is we work entirely with the industry. We work with external clients, we work for branded labels, we work with established designers, we work with live projects. We have a finger on the button of what’s going on and who wants what. We’re constantly evolving the course so we fit in with why we were traditionally set up — to furnish the industry that we work with. It’s a great opportunity for students to explore and occasionally hamper their creativity in order to fit the constraints or the demands or even the encouragement from any of the brands we work with.
WWD: What sort of projects do your students work on with lingerie labels?
G.P.: It can be from a very tight commercial basis right through to the Triumph Inspiration Awards, which is something broad-based and very innovative. [The award invites students from a number of design colleges around the world to design a unique lingerie showpiece.] One of the things that companies know we can do is that our students are very technically able, as well as aesthetically able. So they cover the technical aspects — spec drawing, CAD and working drawings for every single thing they do. Some of the companies come to us because it gives the company an opportunity to trial new fabrics or a new avenue for them, and some companies just like to give the students free rein and say, “Show us what you’ve got.”
WWD: What direction do your students take after they’ve graduated?
G.P.: We have a 100 percent employment record, which during this day and age and in the current economic situation is admirable. We’ve sent graduates this year to Eveden, Tommy Hilfiger, Abercrombie & Fitch, Clover, Next, John Lewis, Superdry and Heidi Klein. Probably 5 to 10 percent a year set up a business, but we have some significant companies [set up by graduates] — Made By Niki, Nichole de Carle, Lascivious and Obey My Demand. De Montfort is very lucky with our graduates. We do hit the high rollers consistently, which is nice.
WWD: Are there any male students on the course?
G.P.: It’s largely female, [but] we currently have one boy on the course. At the moment, we just seem to appeal to the girls. We’re not averse to having boys; it’s just we don’t seem to have that many applicants at present.