If Marilyn Monroe and Rita Hayworth were around today, they might just be addicted to Gilda & Pearl lingerie. The collection, after all, pays tribute to the femme fatale.
Glasgow native Diane Houston launched the luxury label in late 2008 for one simple reason: She has been “enamored” with the glamour and sex appeal of Hollywood’s leading ladies since she was a child.
Key inspirations have been Monroe in “How to Marry a Millionaire,” Lauren Bacall in “The Big Sleep” and “Dark Passage” and Hayworth, who played the temptress in the film noir classic “Gilda,” which gives the first half of the brand’s name.
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Houston also loves pearls because they “represent a preciousness,” and added Pearl to the name because “everything is handmade in the U.K. and each piece is as beautiful as a pearl.”
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Having studied ready-to-wear design at the London College of Fashion Design in the late Nineties, the 30-year-old designer said she developed a passion for lingerie, but training and courses in the intimates field were limited.
“I’m really self-taught when it comes to lingerie,” she said. “I was very inspired by the character of Gilda with Rita Hayworth. The movie was ridiculously over the top and quite scandalous at the time. What also inspired me from the movie was the attention to detail, beading and luxurious fabrics that can transform a woman into an ultimate femme fatale.”
Houston’s 40-piece lingerie and sleepwear line has samples made in England and is hand-finished by her and four assistant designers and patternmakers at her studio in Glasgow. Describing her design ethic, Houston said: “I use old-fashioned techniques like French seaming rather than overlocking, bows that are hand-tied, lace appliqués that are hand-sewn and hand-covered buttons. I keep a notebook of things that inspire me.…It could be a film or a piece of fabric.…I let things set on my head a while and then edit the concept.”
The bulk of orders are generated in England, Scotland, Germany and Austria, as well as on specialty e-commerce site Figleaves.com. Houston said she is looking for a distributor and sales representative in the U.S., where she hopes to launch her label next fall.
Annual wholesale volume was not available, but the brand is approaching $1 million, according to industry estimates. Suggested retail prices for bras average $44, baby dolls are $83, undies sell for $25 and garters are $12.50.
Houston’s newest collection for fall, called A Few of My Favorite Things, is inspired by Audrey Hepburn and her role as Eliza Doolittle in “My Fair Lady.”
“There’s a lot of French leavers lace; deep shades of purple, azalea pink, gorgeous gold tones, and a signature print of vintage robes and baby dolls,” she said. “I’ll also feature my first personalized bridal collection with big bows, eye masks, English lace and monogrammed initials.”