Top 10 urban contemporary retailers ranked by number of stores.
Urban fashion is at a crossroads. WWD reported in June that many urban brands are attempting to break away from the “streetwear” concept to go more upscale. The market’s room for fashion-forward designs has forced brands such as Sean John, Rocawear and Phat Farm to evolve with consumers’ growing needs. Many brands have also expanded into the women’s category, revealing more sophisticated and expensive lines of clothing. An untapped market for these chains is the suburbs. Many chains in the top 10 are found in urban settings — but some, such as D.e.m.o., are generating a growing portion of revenues from their suburban shops. Retailers can also appeal to suburban shoppers via their Web sites.
1. D.E.M.O.
Number of stores: 219
California-based D.e.m.o. is one of the most popular urban contemporary chains, with stores in over 35 states. The eight-year-old retailer is the lifestyle-based concept from Pacific Sunwear. D.e.m.o. increased its store count by 36 percent over the past year to achieve its current total. Big-name brands include Sean John, Rocawear, Ecko Red, Akademiks, Baby Phat, Apple Bottoms, Enyce, Lady Enyce, Anisette and Phat Farm.
2. UNDERGROUND STATION
Number of stores: 176
Underground Station has grown to 176 stores from 161 last year. The chain, which opened its first street store in Brooklyn, now offers 310 Motoring, Pro-Ked by Rocawear, Timberland and Apple Bottoms. With the launch of its Web site in November 2004 and new advertisements in “School Sports Magazine” (an independent national magazine covering high school athletes), Underground Station is looking to expand its target market beyond 20- to 35-year-old urban young adults to the high school teen audience.
3. JIMMY JAZZ
Number of stores: 74
Jimmy Jazz shed the tag of “urban chain” and has mixed up its brand selection a bit over the past couple of years. Main brands now are Antik Denim, Paper Denim & Cloth, Polo Ralph Lauren, 575, True Religion, Ed Hardy, Evisu, Citizens of Humanity, Vintage Disney, Red Money, Nike and more. Stores carry plenty of rap-star labels like Girbaud, Pepe, Mecca and Akademiks, as well. Stores are located in urban downtown shopping areas, strip centers and malls. The chain has units in New York City, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, Chicago, Detroit and Atlanta.
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4. EPIC *
Number of stores: 40
The Epic chain carries Ed Hardy, Sweet Vibes, Rocawear, Apple Bottoms and Chip & Pepper. The Long Island company told WWD it prides itself on focusing on present trends, and that fashionable looks — not name brands — are its focus. Dual-gender stores are found across the northeast and in Florida; Epic II stores sell only women’s wear.
5. MAN ALIVE *
Number of stores: 40
Man Alive, which recently merged with Finish Line Inc., will be all about expansion in the next two years. This one-stop-shopping retailer will have 51 stores by the end of this year, and plans to open 15 to 25 more by the end of 2006. The stores, which offer Rocawear, Apple Bottoms, Baby Phat, Akademiks and a newly developed urban branded plus-size business, have hosted personal appearances from celebrities such as Russell Simmons.
6. CITY BLUE
Number of stores: 34
This Philadelphia chain was one of the first urban retailers to open its doors, in October 1981, featuring Rocawear, Enyce, Baby Phat, Ecko Red, Akademiks, and Girbaud. This year, as City Blue prepares to celebrate its 25th anniversary, the business is thriving, and there are plans to open 10 more stores in 2006. The apparel retailer, which focuses mainly on the East Coast, has seven Lady Blue stores dedicated solely to women; the rest are coed.
7. UP AGAINST THE WALL
Number of stores: 24
Featuring brands such as Lacoste, People for Peace, Antik and Evisu, Up Against the Wall categorizes itself as a “young contemporary” chain. The retailer’s focus is redefining present trends into the hottest future looks for its target market: 18- to 30-year-olds. The chain is famous for its fashion forecasting and providing customers with exclusive pieces from around the world. Stores can be found from L.A. to Miami; a unit will launch in Las Vegas next year.
8. STREET STUFF
Number of stores: 21
Dubbing its stores “Fashion as Affordable,” Street Stuff is a Norfolk, Va. retailer that caters to 16- to 25-year-olds and carries Dickie’s, Phat Farm, Enyce, Mecca and Avirex. The 21-store chain began as a hat shop but was redeveloped by Mitchell Fine (grandson of the founder) into an apparel chain with an urban flair. Store formats feature the look and feel of urban streets, with brick walls, chain-link fencing and several monitors playing hip-hop videos.
9. DR. JAY’S
Number of stores: 19
This New York City chain has a presence in four of the five boroughs — Manhattan, Queens, Bronx and Brooklyn — and across the river in New Jersey. The hip-hop and urban fashion retailer opened in 1975 in the South Bronx, when hip-hop was just beginning to build its foundation in the music world. Today, popular brands for Dr. Jay’s are Akademiks, Rocawear, Baby Phat, Enyce, G-Unit and Sean John.
10. MONY
Number of stores: 11
Mony’s target customers, 16- to 30-year-olds at the forefront of fashion and music trends, are growing up. To keep up with customers’ tastes, Mony introduced a premium denim section selling Seven For All Mankind, Citizens of Humanity, Joe’s and Evisu, and has stayed true to Juicy Couture and True Religion. Mony has also started to offer plus sizes from Baby Phat Clothing and is growing with Sisa, its own private label, which includes tops, outerwear and accessories. Though stores are only in New York City, shoppers from everywhere have access via the Web site: monyonline.com.
Source: stores, Original reporting; *Indicates a tie