LONDON — Gone are the days when tattoos and piercings were relegated to grimy studios in basements, or cheap-looking stalls in shopping malls. They’re now front and center on the shop floor of luxury department stores, appealing to women and men across all ages and backgrounds — not just angry teenagers looking to rebel, or Goths with a penchant for mixing pleasure and pain.
Today, tattoos and piercings have become body art, with the trend becoming mainstream by the minute.
Liberty, Harrods, Selfridges and the new Urban Retreat are among the high-end retailers that have welcomed needle art on their shop floors as shops-in-shop and outposts of fully fledged jewelry brands or tattoo salons.
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The Danish-Irish jewelry designer Maria Black first decided to develop a dedicated piercing collection, and add piercing parlors in her stores, after a Christmas party in 2015 where she got piercings, alongside her entire team.
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“A piercing is more than just a piece of jewelry. It’s a feeling and a thrill, and we discovered that you connect with the experience in a really deep and personal way,” Black said.
She now has piercing studios in her stores in Copenhagen, Oslo and Munich, as well as a newly launched space on Selfridges’ third floor. Her small studio sits alongside buzzy fashion brands such as 16Arlington, Fenty and Rejina Pyo.
“There is a pure childish excitement connected to piercings and I really wanted that connection to take place in our retail spaces,” she said.
Her piercing collection features dainty pieces in the shape of waves, dots or eyes, all made using 14-karat gold, diamonds and precious stones.
Once the look — and placement — of the jewelry became more delicate, refined and sophisticated, there was a shift in the way people looked at piercing. It’s no longer about rebellion, but about self-expression, in the same way that wearing a logo, a designer look or a bag might be. Or perhaps even a tattoo.
The shift began a decade ago, and it is now the new normal, according to Black. “Having four piercings — or more — will be the standard in the future,” she predicted.
Black also pointed to the importance of offering a luxury, curated experience.
Customers have the opportunity to play with different styles and customize their look. The piercings are done in a clean and bright private room, and there is a big emphasis on hygiene and after care.
Harrods has been adopting a similar approach with Maria Tash, whose stores-cum-piercing-studios are a popular destination at retailers including Liberty, Rinascente in Rome and Brown Thomas in Dublin.
According to Maria Milano, head of women’s wear at Harrods, Tash ticked all of the luxury retailer’s boxes given her “elevated take” on the piercing parlor, her use of fine gems and the customizable nature of her designs.
“Customers flock to the boutique and often come with friends or as a mother-daughter pair,” added Milano, pointing to customers’ tendency to return for more piercings, which helps drive fine and demi-fine jewelry sales.
The ready-to-wear brands that are located near Tash’s piercing parlor have also been experiencing a halo effect from customers who are waiting for their piercing appointments, Milano said.
Urban Retreat, which has recently opened its first stand-alone beauty and wellness destination near Harrods, has not only added piercings to its beauty services but tattoos, too. It has recruited an all-female team of artists and piercers to cater to its clients’ needs.
For Reena Hammer, the business’ managing director, adding tattooing and piercing services under the body art category was a no-brainer given the increased demand, and the lack of luxurious spaces, that offer such services.
“What I noticed was a huge shift in the desire and the demographic in this area. We see the cool younger girls who have multiple piercings but also get a wave of women in their 40s and beyond, who probably couldn’t have done it when they were younger,” Hammer said.
“Specifically for this [older] market there isn’t much in terms of luxury; women of a certain age don’t really want to go to Camden,” she said, referring to the gritty London neighborhood known for its outdoor market, colorful locals and boisterous atmosphere.
“Most places for these services are intimidating, often a tad grimy and very, very urban. There’s nothing wrong with urban, but comfort and feeling safe in a trusted environment goes a long way,” she said.