Vionnet is returning to its roots, with the opening of its first Paris boutique since Goga Ashkenazi took control of the historic label in 2012.
The 2,700-square-foot store at 31 Rue François-1er, opening in time for fashion week, is located close to Madeleine Vionnet’s former headquarters on Avenue Montaigne. Ashkenazi said returning to that locale proved impossible, but in every other respect, she sought to be as faithful as possible to the spirit of the founder.
Architect Renato Montagner designed the space with images of the original atelier in mind, incorporating a wealth of details inspired by Vionnet’s creations. Thus, plaster work on the walls re-creates the designer’s signature draping, while a geometric spiral staircase takes its cue from a bias-cut dress.
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“A lot of connections to the past have been drawn,” Ashkenazi said. “For me, it was important to have those references, because I think our heritage is one of the most important parts and one of the biggest privileges that we have working with such a name.”
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The overall look nods to classical Greek architecture, with walls clad in white travertine and crystal marble panels, accented by brass rings and rods.
Vionnet’s signature bright blue hue appears on the terrazzo flooring of the ground floor, which is embedded with thin brass inlays in a motif drawn from an original house pattern from the Twenties. Illustrations by Thayaht, drawn from the archives, have been re-created on Murano glass windows and carpets.
Ashkenazi said the Paris store would be a blueprint for future openings. “We worked out the concept with the thinking that the next steps will be very fast,” she explained.
A New York store is set to open by year-end, and further units are planned for Tokyo and London. In addition, Vionnet will launch an e-commerce site on Oct. 15.
Though its headquarters remain in Milan, the brand is moving some of its teams to the French capital, and Ashkenazi said everyone is happy “about having a home again in Paris.”