NEW YORK — The threat of a pounding snowstorm didn’t keep retailers and suppliers from heading south to Orlando, Fla., for the Cosmetics, Fragrance and Bath Efficient Program and Planning session held by ECRM, which began Sunday.
According to ECRM chief executive officer Charlie Bowlus, attendance rose 15 percent over last year to more than 65 retail companies — many with several buyers — and about 113 supplier firms (with multiple attendees). The large chains, such as Walgreens and Rite Aid, were in attendance for at least some of the featured categories, as well as smaller companies such as Hi-School Pharmacy and Lewis Drug.
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While a few attendees did hop on early flights home to miss the storm, those in attendance said they were pleased with the caliber of both buyers and sellers who displayed items for holiday 2010 and spring 2011. “The mood in general is positive,” said Robert Wallner, vice president of sales for Jordana/Milani, which launched many new items at the show. Buyers also welcomed the timing, which was slightly later than last year since it gave them time to clean out Christmas before hitting the show for new items.
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“The show was good,” said Joseph Shamah, ceo of e.l.f. Cosmetics. “It continues to be a great place to meet once a year with a lot of the industry and plan.” He added that the mood was more focused on selling product and less on niche launches. As a way to help retailers sell more, his company introduced a more upscale collection of cosmetics under the Studio banner, which he said was met with great response.
Mark Crames, ceo of Demeter Fragrance Library, sensed the industry is on the verge of major improvement, especially for fragrances.
“I am seeing an interest in new and different products and a willingness to experiment with product as well as formats that I have not seen for the last year or two,” Crames said. “There is definitely an effort to raise the bar on beauty. I have often heard that great businesses are born during recession because greater creativity is required to succeed. I think we are on the cusp of one of those times in beauty and that new paradigms are just beginning to emerge.”
He could be onto something: cosmetics sales for the 52-week period ended Dec, 26 rose 2.6 percent to $4.3 billion, in food, drug and mass stores including Wal-Mart, according to Nielsen. That was better than last year when sales during the same period inched up 1.4 percent. Fragrance sales, however, are still down — albeit smaller declines than registered the year before.
The major trends, according to buyers, manufacturers and some guests who strolled the meetings set up in hotel rooms included glitter, nail art, eye lashes (false and growing products), natural, licenses and fresh merchandising ideas. Those trends dovetail with sales gains in nail, false eyelashes and facial cosmetics showing the biggest growth, according to Nielsen.
Jordana displayed a Glitter Rocks Retractable Eye Liner featuring a new technology, which helps users achieve a unique eye look. Among the chains set to stock the eye liner are Walgreens, Duane Reade, Savemart and other food, drug and specialty stores. Also from the Milani logo is a nail art lacquer with a precision brush designed for easy application of nail art.
Added Extras reintroduced buyers to Green by Nature, which it acquired from Skaffles. Also in the natural realm, the company displayed Lil Organics, an infant and toddler personal care line launched in Target, as well as Seda Baby, a natural yogurt body care line. Added Extras also updated retailers on its Minerals Dead Sea collection, which offers chains the chance to offer a mass alternative to Ahava.
“Licenses are a success, such as Hello Kitty [in kids’ bath], Star Wars and Thomas the Tank Engine,” said Added Extra’s vice president Michael Kaplan. Hello Kitty is also gaining momentum in cosmetics, he added.
Buyers also told WWD they liked a fairly new line called Essence Beauty, as well as new packaging from Intercos. In fragrance, Crames at Demeter singled out florals, and clean and fresh scents as getting the biggest nod from buyers.
Retailers also said they are impressed with vendors’ efforts to create product promotions and displays that work for different outlets. “For example,” said one buyer, “the size of a display for our stores is different than the store down the street. We are really seeing some creativity to meet our needs and it will be a win-win for all.”