PARIS — Retailers confirmed a bubbling accessories market at the recent edition of Premiere Classe.
While some buyers said spending was down, most reported budgets at least 10 percent higher than last year and some by as much as 40 percent. The event, which ended its four-day stint here March 5, drew 12,510 visitors, 61 percent foreigners.
Key trends for jewelry included color and geometric forms. In bags, leaner styles and more condensed forms, notably the clutch, were among the dominant directions, mainly in patent leather and muted metallics.
“The accessories world is exploding,” said Barbara Atkin, fashion director at Holt Renfrew in Toronto, whose accessories sales are increasing in the double digits annually.
“Accessories are the new wardrobe; ready-to-wear is the new accessory,” added Holt’s Pat Dibratto, vice president of accessories, footwear and jewelry for the upscale store.
Many buyers sought collections that closely mirrored what was seen on the fall runways.
“We bought based on trends,” said Sheila Aimette, fashion director for accessories and shoes at Bloomingdale’s in New York.
With the abundance of short-sleeved coats across fall collections, long gloves will be more popular, she predicted, especially in patent leather and quilted styles.
“Flashy colors such as cobalt blue, pink and splashes of orange will be big,” said Aimette, who applauded the glove ranges of Agnelle and Georges Morand. “Hats will also be huge, as they were all over the collections, in particular cloche styles or structured wide-brim hats with the Seventies feeling that the Marc Jacobs show exemplified.”
She cited Grevi, Marzi and Misa Harada from London among standout collections at the fair.
Certain retailers went against the grain and said offerings left something to be desired.
“This season, accessories have been uninspiring from Paris to New York,” said Stephanie Clairet, accessories buyer for Paris’ Bon Marché. “Metallics and patents are still a go-go.”
Ed Burstell, Bergdorf Goodman’s senior vice president and general merchandise manager of beauty, jewelry and accessories, said, “Premiere Classe was hit-and-miss” and said it featured a lot of last season’s trends at half the price. He said newcomer Tila March’s canvas totes were a winner, however.
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Scouting new designers to recruit, Sylvia Witwicky from Salviati’s jewelry ateliers also detected “a lot of repetition,” pointing to skulls and large chains as elements that have been around for three or four seasons.
As a result, some were holding back on ordering.
“I’m saving for in-season buying,” said Dylan Ross, managing director of Question Air, which has five stores in London. “A lot of designers get ideas mid-season and create mini capsule collections now.”
Nonetheless, many enjoyed the modern futurist theme channeled by a number of jewelry brands. Catherine Doumerc, jewelry buyer for Printemps Haussmann, lauded the “playful” letter necklaces at Rafia & Bossa and the Bakelite billiard ball-style necklaces by Atelier Verstraeten.
“It’s graphic…and makes a change, as often everything looks the same. It’s the influence of our high-tech lifestyles,” she said, adding prices had increased considerably over last year.
Holt Renfrew’s Atkin, meanwhile, detected a shift to “in-your-face luxury” in jewelry.
“It’s a backlash to the high street,” she said, citing Mawi’s chunky gold necklaces that feature Thirties-style faceted fake gems and panther pendants à la Cartier.
Elsewhere, Stefano Poletti’s graphic, constellation-inspired necklaces, as well as Dominique Denaive’s vibrant resin necklaces and big rings, were on Aimette’s shopping list.
“Phillipe Audibert also had some strong sculptural bracelets,” she said.
Exhibitors reported an easing up on spending, with orders coming from quality clients.
“All the Americans and the British are here,” said high-end jewelry designer Jacques An Lanh.
Athanassios Kontos, manager for Aris Geldis, who landed first-time orders from Bloomingdale’s and Henri Bendel, said, “Buyers have been asking for more silver,” adding that bestsellers included the brand’s long silver chains with chunky crystal balls.
Fur accessories at the show took a mixed media approach, combining knit and fur, hairy furs with sheer furs, and fur with patchwork in hats and gloves, noted Atkin. Kassidy Babcock, buyer for Internet site Shopbop.com, which has just been acquired by Amazon, lauded “tons of fur” seen in ski-inspired fur hats and fur outer trims, as well as long leather gloves.
Meanwhile, Sergio Becutti, designer for Italian scarf brand Ben Alder Scotland, said following a “really tough season,” the brand had lightened up.
“We’ve introduced lighter pieces, such as skinny wool scarves that seem to be working well,” he said.