NEW YORK — Color, faux fur, leathers and suede, prints, velvet separates, novelty denim details; graphic T-shirts, tops with lots of shoulder interest, and sweatshirts were among the trends to emerge at the Coterie show, which began Monday.
Exhibitors and retailers surveyed at the Jacob K. Javits Center here said they were happy with the pace of business and the fall trends on display. More than 1,100 exhibitors were showing lines. Many booths — such as White + Warren, Parker, Alice + Olivia, Bailey44, Rebecca Minkoff, Cinq à Sept, Joie, Milly and Minnie Rose — appeared busy with retailers placing orders.
The exhibition highlighted a special feature, “The Coterie Experience,” a 4,000-square-foot interactive installation that combines designer brands and cutting-edge technology. Attendees were given iPads and could walk through two rooms and check out brands such as Grey Jason Wu, Anna Sui, Scotch & Soda, Belstaff and M Missoni. Photos of the brand were on display, and if the consumer held up their iPad, they could see videos about the brand, 360 degree views of their stores, views inside a photo shoot, and product details. The Coterie Experience app uses augmented reality technology that works with triggers that pick up data points and bring up preloaded assets and collateral.
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Valentino Vettori, previously creative director at Century 21, worked with Danielle Licata, vice president of Coterie, on creating the app.
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“A store should become experiential. I’m suggesting that people do this with their own stores. The future of retail is to become more exciting, experiential and entertaining,” said Vettori.
Coterie also spotlighted the trends of the fall season such as pop, minimal, boho, luxe New York and Victorian/Edwardian. Mannequins on display referenced different brands and “mixed high and low,” said Licata.
In addition to its regular lineup, Coterie created three neighborhoods featuring Active, a collection of ath-leisure brands geared toward fashion, fitness apparel and accessories; Tmrw, advanced contemporary lines and emerging designers with a global perspective, and Disruptors, a section dedicated to brands that are sustainable or have a social awareness or presence.
Specific trends evident throughout the three-day show included lots of shoulder interest (cold shoulder/off the shoulder/skin barring tops); sleeve details (bell sleeves); velvet separates; novelty denim detail; ankle baring hemlines; updated shirting; item jackets, fashion sweatshirts and ruffled tops.
Shelba Coe and Rita Butler of the store The Town House, in Nacogdoches, Tex., were looking for summer peasant type blouses and longer length tops. The duo bought some trendy things from Jill Stuart and “some cute little tops” from Parker. “We look for lightweight things for winter [since we’re in Texas],” said Coe.
Shauneen Donlon, co-owner of Revel, a two-year-old, 1,000-square-foot store in Winchester Mass., said she was seeking lines that would differentiate her store from larger department stores. Her boutique is 7 miles north of Boston and carries women’s clothing, accessories jewelry and some home, with a customer who ranges in age from 25 to 65 years old.
“We’re seeing a lot of neutrals for fall,” she said, noting an emphasis on blush, browns, taupes and grays. She was also been seeing a lot of fur, leather and suede and silks. One line she picked up for the first time is AS by DF, praising its suedes and pretty patterns and fabrics. Other lines she bought at the show were Shoshanna and Ted Baker.
“It’s a good show. We have our go-to brands that we’ve developed relationships with and we’re looking for new brands,” said Donlon.
Joelle Goddard-Cooling, owner of Joelle’s, a 5,200-square-foot women’s and men’s boutique in Burlington, Ontario, was looking for clothing that is easy to care for, easy to wear, on-trend and versatile. Among the brands she purchased were Joie floral blouses and Parker floral dresses. She also plans to carry a lot from Sanctuary this fall. She viewed the collection in Toronto and believes it meets her needs.
“I like to do an overview of the season and do a fair amount of buying here,” said Goddard-Cooling.
Goddard-Cooling said she was still interested in skinny pants because their store is in Canada, and skinny pants look best with boots. She was excited about all the florals she saw in the market, as well as the bombers. She also saw sweatshirts with girly details, and would be buying some ath-leisure for the first time. Her customers are between ages 30 and 60 and the store is 40 minutes from Toronto. “They’re not early adopters,” she said of her customer.
Exhibitors were happy with the brisk business they were experiencing.
John Eshaya, owner of Jet by John Eshaya, said he was showing special hand-cut merchandise and vintage patches on items to make them more personal. He was doing well with oversized sweatshirts with one-of-a-kind patches. Another strong item were his statement T-shirts that said, “Proud Feminist.” “They are doing amazing,” he added.
“Every category is working,” said Jane Siskin, founder of Cinq à Sept. “We’re selling novelty pants, jackets with pins and patches, blouses and knitwear.” She’s added that she’s selling looks that go from day to night. “We’ve made our mark to dress the girl for every occasion. It’s a very tough environment. What inspires someone to shop is something new,” she said.
The company, which shipped its first collection in June, sells to stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. She expects business to be at least 30 percent ahead for fall “and we’ve only been in the market eight months,” she said.
“We do romantic well — from novelties to embroidery, lace, trends, pins and patches and ruffles,” she said. Siskin said she delivers every month. “You kind of have to with department stores,” she said.
Ramy Brook has added outerwear pieces to its fall offerings, including faux fur. Wholesale prices range from $131 for a shrug to $264 for a wool jacket with faux fur. “Business has been great. This morning was very crowded for us. There’s always a steady stream. All of our classics do well, and people are loving all the novelty items,” said Ramy Sharp, president and creative director. She said her dress business is almost as big as her tops business.
Lisa Shaller-Goldberg, founder and creative director of Minnie Rose, said she was having success with her military, utilitarian and camouflage knits. For fall, she’s looking for a 40 percent increase in business. The company grew by 30 percent last year. For fall, she’s added new yarns, colors, double-faced cashmere, outerwear and ruffles. The line wholesales from $65 to $380.
Debbie Davimes, owner of Sienna Brown, which has three stores in Newport Beach, Calif., said of Minnie Rose, “This line is exceptional. There are so many special details.”