At this year’s February edition of the Coterie show, the Italian Trade Agency spotlighted and sponsored more than 80 womenswear and accessories brands — with 16 new companies — at the Jacob Javits Center in New York.
Timed to the Milan Cortina Winter Olympic Games, the government agency welcomed visitors with its signature lounge ski-chalet themed installation that featured wintertime drinks and bites.
Building on its earlier years, the selection of designers expanded on previous editions with a larger group of brands; the ITA continues to support Made in Italy brands and expand their presence in the U.S. market.
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Fairchild Studio sat down with Giuseppe Pastorelli, consul general of Italy, and Erica Di Giovancarlo, Italian trade commissioner, to discuss the expanded sponsorship list, what makes Made in Italy fashion brands competitive in the U.S. market and more.
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Fairchild Studio: What made the ITA expand its sponsorship?
Giuseppe Pastorelli: The U.S. is a very relevant market for Italian exports. The total exports from Italy to the world last year were $643 billion and out of that, almost $70 billion came to the U.S. It’s a strategic market for us when we want to increase our presence. Working together with important formats like Coterie and others gives Italian companies the opportunity to open up a new market or expand their presence in the U.S. if they’re already here.
Last year we brought about 60 companies and now it’s 80. And despite the snow and weather conditions with the blizzard, there’s a lot of interest from Italian companies to access the market or to expand into these markets. This is a trend of not only excellent political bilateral relations but also a friendship between the two countries and a trade partnership.
Fairchild Studio: How does the ITA select new designers for trade shows? How do the curated brands resonate with U.S. retailers and consumers?
G.P.: They need to be inclusive and it’s about giving every company the possibility to enter this market. But after that, there’s a selection process because not everybody is ready to enter this market or they need some advice to have a good performance in this market. The ITA goes through a process for companies that are interested in joining.
Erica Di Giovancarlo: We start by selecting the Italian companies in Italy, with our offices over there. There are some characteristics that companies must have, but we’re open to all of them. We have to match the needs of the exhibition, as Coterie has strict rules — so we match the needs of the companies, the exhibitions and its organizers.
Not all companies can participate because they also need to have the capability to export. They need to have an exporting structure in place. But for those who don’t have this structure, we are here to help and we give them the support to organize themselves in facing a new market.
Fairchild Studio: What makes Made in Italy fashion brands have a competitive edge in the U.S. market?
G.P.: Creativity, talent and artisanship. Respect for the environment and precision in manufacturing, quality and attention to detail. Bold design, attention to detail and elements of innovation.
These elements together make up Made in Italy. This is not just a project that the government started decades ago but it’s deeply rooted in our history, geography and the way Italians have approached business and new challenges. It’s part of the DNA and what companies in the fashion industry do best.
Fairchild Studio: What role do digital platforms play in bridging the gap between Italian brands and U.S. retailers?
G.P.: The Italian Trade Commission has been investing in e-commerce for many years because it’s a new trend. You need to give importance and attention to retailers but you need to be where people are and where people decide to make a purchase. This is a project worldwide, from the U.S. to China, working with different platforms.
E.G.: Behind all of this is a big job working together on different platforms. With our specialists, we study the market and try to understand the trends, how these trends change over the years and the new productions in Italy. We try to match these two parts and propose on our website a new way to promote the Made in Italy label.
Fairchild Studio: What’s top of mind while showing at Coterie?
E.G.: We always keep in mind sustainability, creativity and quality. These are the main goals and topics. Then, we study the market to understand what young people want because culture is changing. It’s our duty to keep an eye on the changing world at this moment.
G.P.: In a market driven by consumers, we study where they actually make their purchases. We will continue this double-track approach. We are firmly convinced that experience in person is fundamental when you approach fashion because it’s part of a lifestyle. But we also need to be present on the platform that actually sells the products because that’s where, eventually, the final purchase is made. Maybe the consumers don’t have the chance to experience the full Made in Italy on the platform, but it starts the curiosity.
To learn more, visit ice.it