CANNES, France — Exhibitors at the recent Moda di Mare swimwear fabrics show said they were turning to new fabric technologies to help drive sales in the U.S. in the face of a weakening dollar.
“This year has been very difficult because of the dollar,” said Federico Boselli, president of Mario Boselli Jersey. “We have tried to keep prices low, but we are feeling the effects.”
During the show, which ended its three-day run Dec. 2 at the Palais des Festivals here, attracting 2,604 buyers and 97 exhibitors, the dollar hit a record low of $1.33 to the euro. By Monday, the dollar had slipped to $1.35 to the euro.
“The dollar situation has blocked exports that were once flowing,” said Giorgio Crespi, general director of Eurojersey. “We hope the situation will be resolved in 2005.”
Show president Marco Vanzini said manufacturers shouldn’t pin their hopes on a strengthening of the U.S. currency. Vanzini said, “We can all feel the effects of the dollar, but there is room to change strategy.”
He added that the show is planning to expand and add an edition in Asia.
“The key in this business is exports, and for that reason, we are searching for a location in Asia to exhibit Moda di Mare, and we will invite Asian textile companies of high quality to participate,” he said. “Here in Europe, if you put up barriers, you never move forward. We have to confront the problems of Asian competition in the right way and not ignore them.”
Vanzini added that his company, Linea Azzura, has stepped up its focus on technology, implementing digital printing at subcontractors around the world.
“I put in the digital printing technology five years ago when it was a brand-new concept and people laughed at me,” he said. “Now we produce a million meters a year, offer a faster and more efficient product to clients and have the room to grow.”
Production outside of Europe has benefited Barcelona-based mill Dogi. Marketing director Sergi Domènech said the company was in a recovery trend due to a strategy of dual sourcing in Asia.
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“We bought three knitting and dyeing plants located in Thailand, the Philippines and China in 2001, which are starting to pay off,” he said. “Today, they produce 40 percent of total production for the group and offer the same quality for a smaller price. We produce 32 million meters of fabric a year.”
Other exhibitors agreed that developing new fabric technologies will allow European mills to thrive.
Eurojersey has rebuilt its focus on a fabric innovation, called Sensitive, that it developed several years ago. Made from a blend of Meryl microfiber nylon and Lycra spandex, the fabric resists pilling, is absorbent and resists chlorine stains and bleaching. It costs about 30 percent more than other fabrics in the mill’s range, but Crespi said it sells well because of its performance qualities.
“Innovation has to be the market’s future,” he said. “There is still room to grow. There’s no alternative. We can’t compete on price. It’s not sufficient anymore to make a product that’s technological. They want the fabric to look sexy.”
Eurojersey presented Sensitive in suede-look fabrics with animal-print designs as well as versions printed to resemble denim.
Clerici’s beach division showed leopard, tiger and cheetah prints with hot pink and orange backgrounds, while Miroglio offered fabrics with a touch of gold glitter.
Silk company Mantero relied heavily on its archives to produce its second beachwear fabric collection. Its Forties- and Fifties-style prints were recolored, including coral and shell prints; paisleys in mint, olive, pink and black, and designs treated with an ultrasatin finish. Other prints included fluorescent zebras and poodle designs, as well as pinup girls floating on tubes.