For Julia von Boehm, working in fashion has been a passionate endeavor – it is creative, a means of self-expression, it is political and innovative and it’s always personal.
The New York-based stylist is known for dressing A-list celebrities (including Nicole Kidman, Laura Dern, Haley Bennett and Nina Hoss) on red carpets, styling and art directing campaigns for some of the biggest brands and making her mark on the editorial world through her work at renowned publications from Vogue Paris to InStyle.
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As a creative force, von Boehm told Fairchild Studio that she has been lucky to have every day be unique. In part, she says, this is by design choosing to always expand and explore in her career and using a different lens for each role she takes on. For example, the day might bring her to browse through collections where a particular inspiration could bring her to discover something new to include on a board or consider what could be the right fit.
“In my world, everything is constantly changing,” said von Boehm. “Flexibility and fast reaction are vital. Some people might be frightened by this, but for me it is exciting. I like challenges.
Life would be boring without them!”
One thing von Boehm said she has always been excited to see are the shows at fashion week, taking in ideas for her clients’ upcoming seasons and editorial projects. “It’s always exciting to see new things. In the beginning of my career, I would look at the shows with the eye of an editorial stylist. I looked at shows as a way to find trends and plan themes for upcoming editorials. When I started to style celebrities, I added another task – I started looking for potential looks for my clients and that was quite exciting. I would see a look on the runway that would fit a be a ‘match’ for one of my celebrities. Sometimes I would put a request in to secure exclusivity on the look as soon as the show was over. You’ve got to be fast!”
She is acting on instinct, von Boehm explained, because no matter what she always listens to her gut, which she says has never disappointed her, or her clients. Importantly, von Boehm says that for her, working with any celebrity client is based on trust.
“When I start working with a new client, for me, the most important part is a phone call or a zoom conversation or a face-to-face meeting under ideal circumstances,” said von Boehm. “A conversation not only about fashion but about life in general, it’s the kickoff for preparation.”
While much of the work as a stylist does consist of facilitation with brands and designers, she doesn’t like to drown clients with these near-constant updates. During these conversations, von Boehm speaks to her clients about what they want to represent, how she would like to see them and discuss ideas that she has, to align on thoughts. Moreover, she said, while building a relationship with a client, she does not like to look too much into what they have worn in the past.
“I would much rather get to know the person without having all the prejudices of the past,” said von Boehm. “I want to start with a blank sheet, which is sometimes astonishing to people. Of course, you sometimes have to do a bit of like research but it’s more about body shape. That way, I can start browsing through Vogue Runway in a more educated way to avoid the choosing the ‘less flattering’ silhouettes. It is especially important that I understand who the people are so I can make up a story in my mind.”
Having gotten her start in editorial fashion styling, von Boehm told Fairchild Studio that there is an enormous difference between editorial styling and celebrity styling.
“It’s a different approach since in an editorial you can adjust the clothing with pins, tape and use fishing wire and wind machines to make the garment move in the way you want it to look in the picture,” she said. “Obviously retouching helps as well to lessen any unwanted imperfections. With Red Carpet or press events for the celebrities, you can’t just pin a garment in the back as you would on set, because the person is walking around. You have to think a lot about everything, even the lights and the flashes and the fabric (what is going to wrinkle on their car ride to the event?) – 360-degree perfection is required.”
Von Boehm’s first celebrity client, Nicole Kidman, was her teacher in this learning process and the two have taken on various new projects together over the years.
“It’s a process,” said von Boehm of working with a celebrity. “I think that there is a story that you can tell with clothing, jewelry and accessories. I also believe that continuity is extremely important because it is not just about one moment. I see it as a narrative, an evolution. You think differently about what the client should wear depending on where they are in their lives, depending on the movie that is being promoted and what’s going on in the world. It is much more personal than if you’re dressing a model for a magazine spread.”
Working with actors has opened a new world in her career that von Boehm describes as “kinder,” as she applauds those, she has worked with for being intelligent and “inspiring.”
“I just want to make them shine as much as possible without disguising the celebrity,” she said. “Everyone should look like they selected a look themselves. That’s really my job. I don’t want to shine like a star next to them – I do not need to, that’s not my job.”
A highlight of her career, said von Boehm, was dressing Nicole Kidman in a pale blue Armani Privé dress for
the 2022 Oscars, which she described as an ode to “quiet elegance.” The styling choice was in response to watching the news about the invasion in Ukraine. The Oscars, which could be looked at as superficial, she said, was an opportunity for actresses and stylists to use their visibility to motivate people to donate. A website was set up to collect contributions to Doctors Without Borders.
For von Boehm fashion has also been a source of “joy and lightness,” having a “love for beautiful and glamorous things.”
“I believe that even if the world is in a particularly difficult phase, to say the least, we all need to dream a little and to make people dream,” said von Boehm. “We need glamorous moments. We need those things to keep dreaming.”
During the ever-evolving journey of her career, von Boehm says she’s learned to always “stay true to yourself, to shut out the noise, to trust your gut and take time to think.”
Importantly, she also works to instill confidence in not only the talent she works with but also the team supporting her, allowing for “organic growth” and guiding her interns into becoming assistants. “Something I’m very proud of is that literally all of my past assistants have become really successful stylists,” said von Boehm. “It means a lot to me that I was able to help them.”
Julia von Boehm Wants You to Style Your Whole Look Around Jewelry
The A-list stylist and creative consultant reveals styling tips to take you from the red carpet to everyday icon.
Known for styling looks that land celebrities on best-dressed lists, Julia von Boehm knows how to take a look to the top.
Here, she shares trade secrets for styling a look to make an impact and a few of her personal tips and tricks.
Fairchild Studio: What do you think about when you are first starting to put together a look?
Julia von Boehm: So, the jewelry plays a very important role. Sometimes it all starts with the jewelry. It sounds random but if I have an exquisite piece that I love, I could build something around that.
Otherwise, what is particularly important to me, is to always have a kind of contrast between masculine and feminine. And I do believe that when the outfit is maybe a suit, or something stricter, then I like to go more delicate with jewelry. Usually, when something is already romantic and pretty looking, I rather go into the opposite direction. I would choose “punkier” jewelry like ear cuffs. I might put rings on “unusual “ fingers to counterpart the romanticism.
Fairchild Studio: What advice can you give someone who is styling a look around jewelry?
JVB: You should never overdo it.
I would say that you should always focus on either the ear or the neck or the wrists and hands. In my opinion it is more interesting to exaggerate one or the other, instead of having a little here and there on all 3 body parts. I love contrast between jewelry and the clothing. I like to tell a story and stories are more interesting when there is something “weird” or “disturbing” or “unusual” happening.
Fairchild Studio: How do you style your own jewelry?
JVB: I have a box that is next to my bed and has some of my rings, earrings and cuffs, and some of my necklaces etc. It is the pieces that I like to wear on a daily basis at that moment. Then, I hit a refresh button from time to time (once every two months or so) and swap out the “assortment.”
I mean I am rather classic – I always like contrast in everything. Roberto coins craftmanship and collections are perfect to achieve the perfect mix with the right balance between contrast and cohesiveness.