Only a handful of hairstylists braved the New York Fashion Week sea of low ponytails and minimally styled looks, venturing to go there. And the ones who did went all the way.
From Darth Vader-esque wigs at Sies Marjan to topiary art-inspired volume at Christopher John Rogers, these are the most eye-catching hair looks at New York Fashion Week.
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Hairstyles from Fall 2020 from NYFW: Area
Image Credit: Lexie Moreland/WWD Drawing inspiration from vintage Seventies catalogues, hairstylist Jawara for Australian brand Mr. Smith created three “sexy, luxe” styles for Area, the most eye-catching of which was a bejeweled wig tied in a knot at the nape of models’ necks. “The Area team is obsessed with crystals, as you can see in their clothing, and it’s only right that we try it in the hair,” said Jawara, who incorporated crystals in Area’s hair look once before. “It’s been a big hit. We’re finding new ways to invent how we use them every season.”
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Hairstyles from Fall 2020 from NYFW: Sies Marjan
Image Credit: Sophia Sahara/WWD Two models at Sies Marjan were given what lead hairstylist Duffy described as a “freak show surprise kind of moment.” Using Kanekalon hair soaked in hairspray, Duffy created a two-part fabric-like wig that sat squarely on models’ heads and wrapped around their chins. He then draped a second piece on top for a “monastic, classic Dutch, white cloth Darth Vader-y thing.”
“We went even further to take the eyebrow away — bleached eyebrow to accentuate flawlessness all the way through,” he continued. “When you see something like this, it doesn’t always have to mean something or be something. Gestures like this are quite nice, especially in New York, where no one really does anything.”
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Hairstyles from Fall 2020 from NYFW: Christopher John Rogers
Image Credit: Sophie Sahara/WWD At Christopher John Rogers, hairstylist Naeemah LaFond for Amika played with texture and volume, treating the hair like topiary art.
“I wanted to showcase all kinds of textures and varying shapes and silhouettes and keep it a cohesive story, so the one binding concept is keeping them all structural,” she said. Backstage before the show, she constructed voluminous wigs, sewing foundational pieces into models’ hair and building on top of them.
“Once I got a big amount of hair, I went in with some fabric scissors and shaped it, like you would with topiary art,” she said. She then sprayed the wigs with Amika hairspray to “make sure that the hair stayed up, but still bouncy when you walk down the runway, so it wasn’t too stiff.”
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Hairstyles from Fall 2020 from NYFW: Christopher John Rogers
Image Credit: Sophie Sahara/WWD Backstage at Christopher John Rogers RTW Fall 2020
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Hairstyles from Fall 2020 from NYFW: Anna Sui
Image Credit: Kelly Taub/WWD “Gothic vamp” was the direction designer Anna Sui gave lead hairstylist Garren, cofounder of R+Co. Riffing on a classic Forties roll, Garren began by back-combing models’ hair. “It’s almost like creating a hat,” he said.
Securing the hair with bobby pins and R+Co products, he “vamped up” the look by rolling the hair around his hands to create an asymmetrical shape with “fuzzy little edges all around it.”
“What we don’t want is this complete, secure smooth sausage roll,” he said.
Read more:
‘Expensive’ Eyebrows and Monastic Ponytails at Carolina Herrera Fall 2020
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Hairstyles from Fall 2020 from NYFW: Anna Sui
Image Credit: Kelly Taub/WWD Backstage at Anna Sui RTW Fall 2020
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Hairstyles from Fall 2020 from NYFW: Rodarte
Image Credit: Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD Lead hairstylist Odile Gilbert crafted a “wife of a vampire” hair look for Rodarte.
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Hairstyles from Fall 2020 from NYFW: Rodarte
Image Credit: Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD Rodarte RTW Fall 2020
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Hairstyles from Fall 2020 from NYFW: Jonathan Cohen
Image Credit: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD One model’s hair was adorned with pearls at the Jonathan Cohen fall 2020 show.